TurboEM1

iTrader: (1)

First off there was so much information out there that I thought "What could one more thread hurt?" These are the most informative threads out there with background information on the stock system and all the information you ever wanted to know.

Dasher's First Post (4 pages):
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=697498

Dasher's Follow Up Post (18 pages):
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1199935

Turbotime's Post (3 pages):
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1490117

I am making this thread to compile it all and make it as clear as possible. I'd like to thank turbotime as he helped me out so much and answered every question I had.

The method I am showing is the most simple correct way to do it. There are many other ways to do it as you will see in the other threads.

So after you read all 25 pages of the other threads you will probably be saying "WTF just happened?". So here is the write up for all B series engines done correctly for forced induction.

I have the engine out of the car which makes it 1000x easier. If you need any specific pictures ask me as I will have it in my garage for another couple of days and can take pics of anything you need.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here we go:

1. Gather all your tools and parts. You only need basic tools with a few exceptions. Heres what you should order and/or have.

- Slotted Screwdriver (For hose clamps)
- 1/2" Drive Ratchet with extension or 3/8" drive with an adapter (To remove the block fittings)
- 10mm socket (To remove stock PCV can)
- Cheap autozone breather filter
- 14mm allen key (Comes in a pack of three at autozone for $10)
- 3/4" deep socket or combination wrench (I didnt have the right size but this works to install the new block fittings)
- 5/8" I.D. Hose (About 8 feet should be more then enough)
- Stainless steel hose clamps (4 to fit over hose)
- Honda Block fittings and Honda washers (2 of each. Part numbers 11107-PK2-003 and 12207-634-300. Costs about $30 shipped)
- Catch Can (Your choice of brand. Must have 2 inlets and a breather filter on top. Some people who make are moroso, endyn, z10eng ect... If you use one that has a drainback feature do not use it as the drainback feature will contaminate your oil)

2. I would start by installing a breather filter on the valve cover.


3. Next you need to remove the stock PCV system. It is a couple of 10mm bolts and two hoses. Here it is removed.


This shows what was once in the block and now leaves a large hole that needs the be plugged. I bought a plug from http://www.z10eng.com and it makes life very easy. (part number z10-4018 costs $25)


Of the two hoses coming off. One went to the Intake manifold which needs to be capped off and the other went to the block. Here is the one that went to the block.


Fill it with jb weld and then cap it off.

4. Now the stock system should be removed leaving you a gaping hole in the engine. Plug it with the z10 plug.


Now the stock system is removed and plugged up.

5. Next remove the 2 OEM block fittings on each side of the oil filter with the 14mm allen key. (its 1/2" drive so make sure you have an adapter if using a 3/8" drive ratchet)







6. After removing the 2 stock fittings replace with the new fittings and washers. You should have 2 of each. I used a 3/4" wrench since i didnt have the metric equivalent but it still worked no problem.



7. After you have those nice and tight, install the 5/8" hose and hose clamp it tight with your stainless steel hose clamps. Run the hose to your catch can and clamp them on to the catch can too.



8. Mount your catch can as high as possible in the engine bay and you are all done.


You will now be saving your boosted engine a ton of stress. Now just check the can occasionally to make sure it hasnt filled up and if so empty it.

Any questions feel free to ask. Hopefully this helped out.

Thanks

igo4bmx

yay for the five millionth catch can thread

tony1

What do you use the clean up the oil when it overflows from the catch can?

igo4bmx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you use the clean up the oil when it overflows from the catch can? </TD></TR></TABLE>

mount a popcorn bucket underneath the catch can

B18EG6

maybe im a dummy but when I tried inputting the second part number into acuraautomotiveparts.org it yielded nothing?

.adam.

its a honda part number

and is there anyway to keep the catch can from filling up with oil....im about to do this but keep hearing horror stories of peoples can constantly overflowing

TurboEM1

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18EG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe im a dummy but when I tried inputting the second part number into acuraautomotiveparts.org it yielded nothing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used majestic honda (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com) and they both came up 11107-PK2-003 and 12207-634-300


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you use the clean up the oil when it overflows from the catch can? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why would oil over flow from the catch can? Are you asking becasue this setup doesnt use the drainback feature? If so all you do is empty it every couple of weeks. If you use the drainback feature by tapping into your oil pan your just going to contaminate your oil and have to change it more often.

tony1

Why would it contaminate your oil?

TurboEM1

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicskater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a honda part number

and is there anyway to keep the catch can from filling up with oil....im about to do this but keep hearing horror stories of peoples can constantly overflowing</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just empty it every couple of weeks. Also make sure the catch can is baffled so the oil vapor is able to seperate from the air.

.adam.

ive heard that the can has been known to overfill just after one pass.....although i have not actually experienced this, theres been numerous threads

TurboEM1

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would it contaminate your oil?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

What comes out of the back of the block is not just motor oil. It is mostly gasoline with some slight oily residue. I know i wouldn't want to drain that into my oil pan.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicskater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive heard that the can has been known to overfill just after one pass.....although i have not actually experienced this, theres been numerous threads</TD></TR></TABLE>

It must be installed incorrectly then, not have proper baffling or the engine is experiences severe blowby. If your engine has normal compression and leakdown test results youll be fine.

tony1

It's coming out of the back of the motor, where does the gas come from?

TurboEM1

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's coming out of the back of the motor, where does the gas come from? </TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StyleTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A Catch can is supposed to collect blowby vapors, which is air/fuel mixture that pushes past the rings and mixes with the oil cloud.

You should be getting a oil/fuel milkly brown mixture in the catch can.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sprockets

iTrader: (6)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just empty it every couple of weeks. Also make sure the catch can is baffled so the oil vapor is able to seperate from the air.</TD></TR></TABLE>

More like every day. Adding valve cover vents on the front will help the problem, but I'm not sure if you can eliminate the drainback without running the risk of the catch can overflowing.

TurboEM1

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USE2B16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

More like every day. Adding valve cover vents on the front will help the problem, but I'm not sure if you can eliminate the drainback without running the risk of the catch can overflowing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How would adding valve cover vents help?

tony1

Ok, so if you don't have a catch can then your oil gets contaminated from those vapors? Or is it the catch can that's creating those vapors?

To those who think you don't need the drain back and will only need to drain in every so often, think again if you're racing the car. I speak from a lot of experience, high hp motors HAVE blowby, you can't get around it. I've seen A LOT of drag race cars puking oil out of the breather with the endyn kit, even with the drain back hooked up. If you get the lines off the front of the valve cover instead of the back of the block, it won't carry much oil out with it, and you shouldn't have that problem.

TurboEM1

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, so if you don't have a catch can then your oil gets contaminated from those vapors? Or is it the catch can that's creating those vapors?

To those who think you don't need the drain back and will only need to drain in every so often, think again if you're racing the car. I speak from a lot of experience, high hp motors HAVE blowby, you can't get around it. I've seen A LOT of drag race cars puking oil out of the breather with the endyn kit, even with the drain back hooked up. If you get the lines off the front of the valve cover instead of the back of the block, it won't carry much oil out with it, and you shouldn't have that problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you dont have a catch can i would assume you would be running the stock PCV system. If so that takes the gas/oil mixture caused by blowby and puts it into the intake manifold and cylinder to be burned off. The stock system is closed loop. There would be no contamination of the oil. What you do get is "contamination" for a lack of better words in your intake tract. Thats why stock cars have really dirty and oily throttle bodies. The blowby goes right back into the intake.

The catch can does not create the vapors. It catches them so you can remove them later with out them gumming up your intake. Re-routing it back to your oil doesnt really make much sense. So instead of a stock system contaminating your intake with oily residue your going to send it into your oil pan? The best way is to store it temporarily in a catch can and get rid of it yourself.

As far as how often you have to drain. There are a select group who have it fill up after 1 pass. They usually have severe blowby, poor leakdown test results, and low compression or they dont have it mounted correctly. Try to get it as high in the engine bay as possible. It usually fills up in two weeks. Dont forget you can make 1, 2, or even 3+ quart capacity catch cans. It should definately not be filling up after one pass.

As far as the endyn kit. From what i have seen most people dont even hook it up right. They tee the drain off of one of the 2 block fittings. All that does is recirculate the crap in the catch can. It barely drains it away or gets rid of it.

Also as far as tapping off the valve cover. You have to do it where the stock valve cover is baffled. This will minimize any liquids coming out while still letting you vent the air. And if any vapor were to come out of the valve cover it would be oil.

Sprockets

iTrader: (6)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The catch can does not create the vapors. It catches them so you can remove them later with out them gumming up your intake. Re-routing it back to your oil doesnt really make much sense. So instead of a stock system contaminating your intake with oily residue your going to send it into your oil pan? The best way is to store it temporarily in a catch can and get rid of it yourself.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are right. The pcv system helps remove contaminants. I would prefer to not have a drainback. I tried it, but it overflowed on me a couple of times, then I would have to consistently drain the can and add oil every day to prevent this. The only thing you can do is change your oil more often if you have the drainback.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also as far as tapping off the valve cover. You have to do it where the stock valve cover is baffled. This will minimize any liquids coming out while still letting you vent the air. And if any vapor were to come out of the valve cover it would be oil.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're going to remove oil and vapor. Doing this has helped other people, and of course they tap the valve cover behind the baffles.

TurboEM1

iTrader: (1)

By adding breathers on the valve cover it makes less come out the back of the block?

Is that because overall it just lowers the pressure built up in the motor?

tony1

My purpose in building a catch can is to relieve crankcase pressure. The closer you can get pressure in the motor to 0psi, the more power you're going to make. I don't know if any of you have ever done any crankcase pressure datalogging, but the results would probably surprise alot of you. Ever wonder why the dipstick blows out sometimes when the seal is a little worn?

Dry sump systems are supposed to pull a vacuum in the crankcase, freeing up hp by taking away pumping losses. I have yet to see a dry sump system on a high hp turbo motor pull a vacuum. The best i've seen is 4-5psi with 2 scavenge stages, and 2psi with 4 scavenge stages. The fact is that high hp cars HAVE blowby, you can't get around it. You make 150+hp per cylinder and some of it is going to leak past the rings! The best you can hope for is to relieve that pressure. My setup has 6 -10 lines, 2 of them doubling as the dreaded drain back lines, and 3 filters. I think i've probably gotten the crankcase pressure pretty low with this setup.

I don't know how you figure the catch can or PCV setup catches all the vapors and the oil doesn't get contaminated. I've been draining mine back all season and making over 700hp with no problems.

Sprockets

iTrader: (6)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">By adding breathers on the valve cover it makes less come out the back of the block?

Is that because overall it just lowers the pressure built up in the motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Apparently. I haven't done this yet, but have the parts. Z10 also sells an oil cap with an -an fitting for extra ventilation.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know how you figure the catch can or PCV setup catches all the vapors and the oil doesn't get contaminated. I've been draining mine back all season and making over 700hp with no problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sure, but how often do you change your oil? Do you send your oil to a lab for analysis?

tony1

Haha, i'd rather change my oil a little more often than drain my catch can and add more oil every couple days!

Sprockets

iTrader: (6)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Haha, i'd rather change my oil a little more often than drain my catch can and add more oil every couple days!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed, but I don't do this anymore. I just change my oil more often and run the drainback. He is right, though. Running a drainback does contaminate your oil. The only way to know how well your oil is holding up is to do an oil analysis. It's $20 or so.

TurboEM1

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USE2B16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Agreed, but I don't do this anymore. I just change my oil more often and run the drainback. He is right, though. Running a drainback does contaminate your oil. The only way to know how well your oil is holding up is to do an oil analysis. It's $20 or so.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you done an oil analysis with the drainback feature? If so how were your results?

tony1

An oil analysis is a number. If it's not causing damage, then what's the big deal?