bodiez

***TONS OF UPDATES ON PAGE 3! (6/30/09)***

Got this CRX for $200. Snapped a timing belt and needs a **** load of work as ill show through pics.

Front lifted up after i ripped off the damaged bumper/fender


Back of the rex. I love the crx but those tails have GOT to go.


Someone either ripped some aftermarket shitty looking spoiler off or did a terrible install/removal job. This makes me sick.


The guy locked the keys in the car and tried the ole' honda unlock trick in the window jam. Nice job moron


Inside of project hackjob. Not that bad. Dash is in mint condition and the climate control is MINT, which after reading on these boards cracks real easy. Also white gauges. Can anyone ID these for me whether this is an aftermarket/import cluster or just a faceplate switch?


Previous (butcher) owner had a remote wire switch for their system mounted on the dash and instead of doing it right they chiseled it or something so its garbage IMO. Might get a larger switch that covers the hole so it fits snug and looks clean without replacing.


Radio, hackjob part 5. The radio harness is there but the antenna wire is snipped. Excellent.


Can anyone ID this suspension? The car is dropped but i cant ID the drop.


There ya go so far.

Right now me and my dad are in the process of putting a new timing belt to see if there was any damage done to the head but were both stuck on the crankshaft pulley bolt. Breaker bars while freezing the flywheel in place, we tried everything. Got another idea for next time but ugh.

Need:
Plastic piece that goes under the wheel that goes around the keyring
antenna plug (snipped from harness)
Probably a head (either a stock head or a ZC)

PM me if you have any of those parts, id like to keep this thread to comments and help only, its my first rex.

Thanks


Modified by bodiez at 3:44 AM 7/18/2006


Modified by bodiez at 8:01 PM 7/2/2008

Ls_dx

iTrader: (5)

ouch, its an automatic.

props for trying to save an EF

thats alota work.

get it safe to drive and throw a motor in it ...

a clean climate control is hard to find...

mrtoastyjr

the suspention looks like some cheap egay ****, and those are just after market gauge faces. GL

Jesterian

Gross car. Good luck.

bodiez

Yeah its a POS for sure but its a learning experience for me. Thanks guys

ludesrv

Manual swap.

bodiez

depends. how much would it be for parts? If i do enough work on this car ill just keep it

bodiez

Tried everything to get the crankshaft pulley bolt off. 160 PSI impact, breaker bar, i dont know wtf to do

philkehn

the crank pulley is on at 600 lbs

bodiez

600 lbs? bullshit no freaking way. I heard they come off around 200psi

bodiez

UPDATE:

Got some manual conversion parts (i think all i need is a shifter/shift cables), taillights, brand new speaker covers and a mint driver side fender all for $100! Amazing deals on craigslist my friends.

Also, me and my dad decided instead of wasting time trying to get that stupid bolt off were just going to put a new engine in it because the head is most likely destroyed anyway so whats the point. I want a nice sohc vtec motor, peppy that is a good turbo candidate later. SOHC ZC has vtec correct? Comments/suggestions?

andrey320

You don't have to remove the crank pulley to see if the head is damaged. Just spin the valvetrain by the cam shaft. Pull the plugs to make it easier.

pwr_crx

Good luck on the pedal swap. It can be a PITA.

bodiez

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by andrey320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't have to remove the crank pulley to see if the head is damaged. Just spin the valvetrain by the cam shaft. Pull the plugs to make it easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>

We were trying to put a timing belt on it to see for sure and we gave up on that idea. My dad is angry so hes going to pull it off just to prove its not better then us. Pulling the motor soon for extra parts and what not.

What engine would you guys recommend as a quick daily driver thats a good turbo candidate?

DOHC_C-REX

at least your hvac isnt cracked

get one of the EDM 16v spoilers to cover the holes on your hatch!

steve00si

geez that is the biggest POS what a waste of your money. jk bodiez good luck with the project, see ya soon

bodiez

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steve00si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">geez that is the biggest POS what a waste of your money. jk bodiez good luck with the project, see ya soon</TD></TR></TABLE>

steve dont you have some place to be?

Like talking to phinees about drifting bikes?

bodiez

btw: update

I switched out the tails with stock ones....much better. I also started working on the auto to manual swap. Dropped the steering column and pulled out the seat. I cant find half these nuts. Any help on where they are/how to get them?

SlobberGoat

for saving an EF

Contender25

If you take the motor out, you can for sure get the crank pulley bolt off if you use a big *** rachet and a breaker bar thats about 3-4 ft. long, just stand on it with your weight and keep bouncing on it. You know, i have a Z6 head thats in great condition but has a broken vtec solenoid so you would have to replace that to allow vtec to work, other then that i also have a good condition Jspec DX head that would be perfect if your putting on a new T-belt and water pump. Btw make sure when you take the old head off that the block still looks fine, let me know if you interested in those heads.

bodiez

Thanks contender. When i pull out the motor ill probably take it all apart and see whats good, maybe even use the the block to learn porting and polishing. So possibly ill reassemble the motor and sell it with your head, ill keep in touch.

Tippyman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bodiez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">UPDATE:SOHC ZC has vtec correct? Comments/suggestions?</TD></TR></TABLE>

*Shameless Plug*
Read my project thread...

bodiez

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*Shameless Plug*
Read my project thread...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i actually have been but i guess i missed that.

Leaning towards the DOHC Vtec D series now. What do you guys think? 130hp 9.6 comp not bad.

bodiez

UPDATE: I just finally got the pedal assembly off. After finishing it it wasnt too bad. Lemme do a quick write up for all yall (for at least as far as I am right now)

In my opinion, the key to the infamous "pedal assembly switch" is taking the extra time and getting things out of your way. Before starting the job get a manual pedal assembly. This helped alot because there are nuts and such that you cant see and you can look at the assembly you are putting in and easily find them.

1. Get everything out of your way. Unbolt the driver seat and yank it out.

2. Pull out the steering column. These 2 things make life much easier. Heres how (as far as i can remember)
-Gently pry off the H emblem in the center of the steering wheel. Under you will find a metric nut (26 mm i believe)
-Unbolt the steering wheel and remove. Put the nut back on the column so you dont loose it.
-After this, the majority of the steering column is mounting brackets and electrical connectors. Remove them all.
-After you are all done with that. Peel back the plastic sleeve over the steering column knuckle. Remove the nut at the joint and pull out.

3. Moving on, Simply remove all the nuts from the metal piece. Look at the assembly you have for guidance on where the nuts are. The hardest nut turned out to be extremely simple. Its hiding behind 2 air ducts. Simply remove the air ducts and you are good as gold. Its hard to even find but remove the 2 plastic ducts and itll be right there for ya.
4. To finish the job, un hook the springs that assist in returning the pedal. Remove the coder pin o nthe brake pedal and that should free up the brakes. For the gas pedal, definitely leave the pedal there. Remove the coder pin and the returner spring and pop the pedal out of the metal assembly. Remember and keep the washers that were behind the codder pin.

I put the brake selinoid or whatever it is on the new assembly and took the gas pedal off the new one and thats where i stand. Im getting excited that I got past this annoying hurdle

white90crxhf

http://www.toolsource.com/ost/...00439

for the crankshaft pully bolt... i have this tool, worked great, i can use it for my car and my wifes accord .