OFFICIAL K.I.S.S. DIY: Forced Induction Greddy/NRG Cathcan Install on B16 / B17 / B18!!!
01-11-2006, 04:45 PM
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OFFICIAL K.I.S.S. DIY: Forced Induction Greddy/NRG Catchcan Install on B16 / B17 / B18!!!
Ok I got tired of readin and answering all these questions so here we go. First off let me thank dasher for the education he provides here:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1199935
I will be borrowing some images
==============================
CONVERTING THE CATCHAN
==============================
I purchased an NRG catchcan. This cathcan has 2 fittings as well as a drain bolt. It can be mounted perpendicular or parallel- i chose parallel. In order for this can to be most effective we will have to change a few things.
1. Add a new fitting. I chose a 3/8" fitting, I mounted it on the side opposite the original fittings and as high as possible in order for it to draw the oil all the way through the can, catching as much blowby as possible. I added it by drilling a hole, and jbwelding the fitting in said hole.
2. Add Baffling- My can was empty when I opened it up so I just put some steel wool in it to draw as much of the blowby out of the air as possible. I suggest a coarse steel wool as it will capture particles and still allow the air to flow somewhat freely.
==============================
==============================
THE INSTALL!!!!
==============================
Background Info You Should Know:
Basically the PCV system is the Positive Crankcase ventilation system. With all that heat in the crankcase there is bound to be some oil and vapor and they need somewhere to go- the pcv takes care of this.
In NA cars these blowby gases are routed back into the intake manifold and then the combustion chamber in order to reduce pollution and such nonsense. In reality these are mostly non-combustable materials which lower the octane of your gas and leave a nasty gunk in your intake manifold and on top of your pistons
.
Because the stock system is intended to NA cars it uses a one way check valve that prevents positive pressure in the crankcase in cases of backfire etc. Since we are using this in a forced induction system, the crankcase would theoretically see all the boost the turbo was building. The stock pcv valve prevents thi from happening, but in the process it prevents crankcase pressure from escaping- and you can bet it builds pressure in boost. We are modifying the system for FI (Forced Induction
) so a few changes have to be made.
1. Out with the old in with the new. Remove the stock pcv valve, and the black box attached to it. Remove the pcv valve, the line going from the valve to the intake manifold, and plug the intake manifold port with a vacuum cap and a screw clamp it.
The black box has 2 ports. One goes to the pcv valve, the other to another port on the block. Plug this port with some jbweld or use a cap of some sort- it has to be able to resist high heat though.
Plug the larger hole (crankcase ventilation) that the black box was plugged into with one of these 3 methods:
1) Aluminum Freeze Plug (34.4mm-34.6mm)
2) Aluminum circular plate epoxied with Devcon Liquid Aluminum
http://www.devcon.com/devconfa...id=34
3) http://www.z10eng.com/ makes a plug.
Now the old pcv system should be completely removed, there should be no remenants of it.
2. Let the crankcase breathe. You will find 2 14mm allen/hex-hey fittings on the back of the block to either side of the oil filter. Using a 14mm allen/hex key (yeah its huge, i got mine from snapon
) remove the 2 plugs.
and replace them with these fittings availible at your local honda dealer ($40, special order)
3. Decide on vac. scavenge or open breather See Dashers thread on how vacuum scavenge works, you can use a vacuum scavenge or just a breather. But know that whatever source you use to scavenge will get contaminated with blowby gas so I suggest you route it away from the engine bay (exhaust scavenge/remote breather).
4. Install teh can!. Now all you do is connect the dots! Using the correct size tubing connect the two ports on the back of your block to the 2 ports on the catch can. Install a breather on the 3rd port or a vac scavenge. You can use a breather on the valve cover but i T'd it into one of the lines coming off the block myself...
====================================
Done! With this setup I needed to drain the can every 2-3weeks running a built engine. Im sure it saved my ringlands a bunch of stress though!
Yes, there are other ways to run this but this is a simple, effective, CORRECT way to do it for forced induction. There are other correct ways, but this is the K.I.S.S. method for a reason.
Hope this helps and ends all these catchcan questions!!!!
I don't care if i spelled anything wrong! There was a lot of typing!
Modified by turbotime at 6:09 AM 1/12/2006
Modified by turbotime at 4:30 PM 9/25/2006
Modified by turbotime at 4:31 PM 9/25/2006
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1199935
I will be borrowing some images
==============================
CONVERTING THE CATCHAN
==============================
I purchased an NRG catchcan. This cathcan has 2 fittings as well as a drain bolt. It can be mounted perpendicular or parallel- i chose parallel. In order for this can to be most effective we will have to change a few things.
1. Add a new fitting. I chose a 3/8" fitting, I mounted it on the side opposite the original fittings and as high as possible in order for it to draw the oil all the way through the can, catching as much blowby as possible. I added it by drilling a hole, and jbwelding the fitting in said hole.
2. Add Baffling- My can was empty when I opened it up so I just put some steel wool in it to draw as much of the blowby out of the air as possible. I suggest a coarse steel wool as it will capture particles and still allow the air to flow somewhat freely.
==============================
==============================
THE INSTALL!!!!
==============================
Background Info You Should Know:
Basically the PCV system is the Positive Crankcase ventilation system. With all that heat in the crankcase there is bound to be some oil and vapor and they need somewhere to go- the pcv takes care of this.
In NA cars these blowby gases are routed back into the intake manifold and then the combustion chamber in order to reduce pollution and such nonsense. In reality these are mostly non-combustable materials which lower the octane of your gas and leave a nasty gunk in your intake manifold and on top of your pistons
.Because the stock system is intended to NA cars it uses a one way check valve that prevents positive pressure in the crankcase in cases of backfire etc. Since we are using this in a forced induction system, the crankcase would theoretically see all the boost the turbo was building. The stock pcv valve prevents thi from happening, but in the process it prevents crankcase pressure from escaping- and you can bet it builds pressure in boost. We are modifying the system for FI (Forced Induction
) so a few changes have to be made.1. Out with the old in with the new. Remove the stock pcv valve, and the black box attached to it. Remove the pcv valve, the line going from the valve to the intake manifold, and plug the intake manifold port with a vacuum cap and a screw clamp it.
The black box has 2 ports. One goes to the pcv valve, the other to another port on the block. Plug this port with some jbweld or use a cap of some sort- it has to be able to resist high heat though.
Plug the larger hole (crankcase ventilation) that the black box was plugged into with one of these 3 methods:
1) Aluminum Freeze Plug (34.4mm-34.6mm)
2) Aluminum circular plate epoxied with Devcon Liquid Aluminum
http://www.devcon.com/devconfa...id=34
3) http://www.z10eng.com/ makes a plug.
Now the old pcv system should be completely removed, there should be no remenants of it.
2. Let the crankcase breathe. You will find 2 14mm allen/hex-hey fittings on the back of the block to either side of the oil filter. Using a 14mm allen/hex key (yeah its huge, i got mine from snapon
) remove the 2 plugs.and replace them with these fittings availible at your local honda dealer ($40, special order)
3. Decide on vac. scavenge or open breather See Dashers thread on how vacuum scavenge works, you can use a vacuum scavenge or just a breather. But know that whatever source you use to scavenge will get contaminated with blowby gas so I suggest you route it away from the engine bay (exhaust scavenge/remote breather).
4. Install teh can!. Now all you do is connect the dots! Using the correct size tubing connect the two ports on the back of your block to the 2 ports on the catch can. Install a breather on the 3rd port or a vac scavenge. You can use a breather on the valve cover but i T'd it into one of the lines coming off the block myself...
====================================
Done! With this setup I needed to drain the can every 2-3weeks running a built engine. Im sure it saved my ringlands a bunch of stress though!
Yes, there are other ways to run this but this is a simple, effective, CORRECT way to do it for forced induction. There are other correct ways, but this is the K.I.S.S. method for a reason.
Hope this helps and ends all these catchcan questions!!!!
I don't care if i spelled anything wrong! There was a lot of typing!
Modified by turbotime at 6:09 AM 1/12/2006
Modified by turbotime at 4:30 PM 9/25/2006
Modified by turbotime at 4:31 PM 9/25/2006
01-11-2006, 04:57 PM
#3
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im thinking you can put some type of inline filter in the vacuum source of the catch can so the turbo doesn't get dirty.
also did you do this all with the motor in the car?
also did you do this all with the motor in the car?
01-11-2006, 05:08 PM
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Re: OFFICIAL K.I.S.S. DIY: Forced Induction Greddy/NRG Cathcan Install on B16 / B17 / B18!!! (turbot
nice write up, im sure ill be refering to it later 
01-11-2006, 05:40 PM
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Re: (igo4bmx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you do this all with the motor in the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah it was a BITCH. I even left the intake manifold in the engine bay yet detached. It was very frustrating yet doable.... if you completely remove the intake manifold it would be much easier tho...
yeah it was a BITCH. I even left the intake manifold in the engine bay yet detached. It was very frustrating yet doable.... if you completely remove the intake manifold it would be much easier tho...
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01-11-2006, 08:18 PM
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Re: (StylishDOHC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StylishDOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where did you get your aluminum freeze plug....i can't find one anywhere?</TD></TR></TABLE>
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01-11-2006, 08:24 PM
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Re: (mike93eh)
Not one in my area had aluminum freeze plugs (knechts, napa, autozone, schucks)...Oh and turbotime sorry for the thread jack....This is a very good write-up and should help a lot of people that are confused by the other threads out
01-11-2006, 09:04 PM
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Re: (StylishDOHC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StylishDOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not one in my area had aluminum freeze plugs (knechts, napa, autozone, schucks)...Oh and turbotime sorry for the thread jack....This is a very good write-up and should help a lot of people that are confused by the other threads out</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i found one at some mom and pop shop for like $1. Z10eng sells one buts its $25 or something- but it is also removeable.
With a freeze plug you need to jbweld it in and that is semi-permenant/permenant
I am getting teh Z10eng plug for my current build (B17 rebuild)
yeah i found one at some mom and pop shop for like $1. Z10eng sells one buts its $25 or something- but it is also removeable.
With a freeze plug you need to jbweld it in and that is semi-permenant/permenant
I am getting teh Z10eng plug for my current build (B17 rebuild)
01-12-2006, 06:04 AM
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Re: OFFICIAL K.I.S.S. DIY: Forced Induction Greddy/NRG Catchcan Install on B16 / B17 / B18!!! (turbo
instead of a freeze plug,
you can hack off the tube from the back of the black box and use that tube portion (with the o-ring!) to plug the hole, just weld a piece of metal on the end of the tube to seal it off.
nice write up!!!!!!!!
you can hack off the tube from the back of the black box and use that tube portion (with the o-ring!) to plug the hole, just weld a piece of metal on the end of the tube to seal it off.
nice write up!!!!!!!!
01-12-2006, 06:12 AM
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Re: (rudebwoy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with the greddy can like that where does all the excess oil go?
my boy set his up similar to that except the did like the endyn setup and put a drainback line and a filter on the can</TD></TR></TABLE>
excess oil is caught in the can. The vapor are expelled into the atmosphere or back into your intake depending on how you have it set up.
You can setup a drainback feature but i would not want the crap i found in that can going back anywhere into my engine. I just drain teh can every few weeks, throw away the **** that i drain out.
For some added ease you can put a needle valve in the drain bolt hole and that makes it easy as pie to drain the crap out. Just make sure you get a valve with a beg enough opening cause some of the stuff in the can is more of a gunk than a liquid
my boy set his up similar to that except the did like the endyn setup and put a drainback line and a filter on the can</TD></TR></TABLE>
excess oil is caught in the can. The vapor are expelled into the atmosphere or back into your intake depending on how you have it set up.
You can setup a drainback feature but i would not want the crap i found in that can going back anywhere into my engine. I just drain teh can every few weeks, throw away the **** that i drain out.
For some added ease you can put a needle valve in the drain bolt hole and that makes it easy as pie to drain the crap out. Just make sure you get a valve with a beg enough opening cause some of the stuff in the can is more of a gunk than a liquid
01-12-2006, 01:45 PM
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I should mention if you use a preturbo-scavenege like in my pics you will get blowby oil and gas in your turbo, intercooler, and charge pipes.
I disassembled teh setup after 3 weeks and there was considerable oil residue, to the point that i switched it from preturbo scavenge to a remote brether under the car (so the engine bay stayed clean).
If you want to do a scavenge i suggest using the downpipe as a scavenge, just make sure you sty within 12-18" of the turbo so you get enough velocity of air to create a vacuum.
Make sure that when doing a scavenege you face the slashcut the right way !!!!!! that is CRITICAL.
Face the wrong way means youll be pressurizing your crankcase! This can be saved with a checkvalve but eh, just do it right.
01-12-2006, 03:19 PM
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Re: (turbotime)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I should mention if you use a preturbo-scavenege like in my pics you will get blowby oil and gas in your turbo, intercooler, and charge pipes.
I disassembled teh setup after 3 weeks and there was considerable oil residue, to the point that i switched it from preturbo scavenge to a remote brether under the car (so the engine bay stayed clean).
If you want to do a scavenge i suggest using the downpipe as a scavenge, just make sure you sty within 12-18" of the turbo so you get enough velocity of air to create a vacuum.
Make sure that when doing a scavenege you face the slashcut the right way !!!!!! that is CRITICAL.
Face the wrong way means youll be pressurizing your crankcase! This can be saved with a checkvalve but eh, just do it right.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and do it after the o2 sensor no need in oiling that thing down.
I should mention if you use a preturbo-scavenege like in my pics you will get blowby oil and gas in your turbo, intercooler, and charge pipes.
I disassembled teh setup after 3 weeks and there was considerable oil residue, to the point that i switched it from preturbo scavenge to a remote brether under the car (so the engine bay stayed clean).
If you want to do a scavenge i suggest using the downpipe as a scavenge, just make sure you sty within 12-18" of the turbo so you get enough velocity of air to create a vacuum.
Make sure that when doing a scavenege you face the slashcut the right way !!!!!! that is CRITICAL.
Face the wrong way means youll be pressurizing your crankcase! This can be saved with a checkvalve but eh, just do it right.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and do it after the o2 sensor no need in oiling that thing down.
01-12-2006, 03:47 PM
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Re: (b18ccivics)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18ccivics »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and do it after the o2 sensor no need in oiling that thing down. </TD></TR></TABLE>
</TD></TR></TABLE>
01-12-2006, 04:30 PM
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Re: (turbotime)
nice write up.
im waiting to install my endyn kit (yes, after getting it i realized i couldve easily made something similar myself for cheaper.
anyway, you said you got your hex driver from snapon... did you order it online? i went to the website and it was $23.xx.
i went every where locally here in miami, and i found nothing, everywhere i went they only had upto 10mm.
im waiting to install my endyn kit (yes, after getting it i realized i couldve easily made something similar myself for cheaper.
anyway, you said you got your hex driver from snapon... did you order it online? i went to the website and it was $23.xx.
i went every where locally here in miami, and i found nothing, everywhere i went they only had upto 10mm.
01-12-2006, 04:47 PM
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yeah i paid all $23 bux, sad but true.
I would try SEARS if they dont have it then snapon is probably your only choice.
I kno it sucks, but i was determined to do it the right way
I would try SEARS if they dont have it then snapon is probably your only choice.
I kno it sucks, but i was determined to do it the right way
01-12-2006, 07:09 PM
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Re: (turbotime)
take a bolt with a 14mm head and weld a nut on the end and use that and a wrench to take the plugs out of the back of the block, no need to spend $25 on an allen key just to use twice.
