Boilermaker1

I bought the fastbrakes kit (400 w/ SS lines, 335 w/o, you have to call and tell them you don't want the SS lines) that comes with ITR calipers, 11" rotors (redrilled to 4x100) and Axxis Ultimates, but this could easily be pieced together. ITR, Prelude and Accord V6 (97-02?) all have the same calipers, get a set. Get rotors from the same set of cars, redrilled to 4x100. Pick some pads. Those are the only parts you need.




The side of the bracket you see in that picture needs to be ground down approximately 3-4 mm ALL THE WAY UP to the top of the caliper. Ideally, use a 11" grinding wheel so you can do it all in 1 pass. Use a 6" if not. If you use a 4" like I have, then you'll need to dremel the top corners out because the grinder isn't big enough to reach. Make sure you also grind down the clips that hold the pad in place, or they'll rub the rotor.
The grinding is necessary to take care of the offset difference between the way the brakes are mounted on the ITR and the way they're mounted on this car. I've been told its totally safe to remove this material, there's more than enough left. To clarify, this is the BACK side of the bracket that does not have the machined surface that abuts the hub bracket.

Pull the old brakes off completely, clean up the hub as normal. Bend back (or cut off) the dust plate.

Stock 10.2" calipers on the left, 11" ITRs on the right.


Put the rotors on (holes that weren't used are for 4x114.3), put the calipers on, make sure there's no interference, hook up the lines, bleed them and go. It should go with out saying... but bleeder valves face UP.


The first 70 or so miles, I had some big time pad drag, but it stopped once I got the pads worn in a little. They're now running completely silent and stop fantastically. There's a definite difference between these and the 10.2"s and its kind of evident when you stuff your foot into the pedal and eat steering wheel.


Excuse my filthy car.

Oh yeah... the 16x8s. When I say barely fit, I mean BARELY. There might be 1/2 an inch between the strut and the wheel. I might need track spacers once the tires go on. We'll find out.

i shiton u

looks clean
you rolling on 17s?
hope you got a set of steel brake lines
heard they make a huge difference in feel

abmerop18

nice setup. i am guessing that since there isnt much room for clearence between those 16" wheels and the calipers that it probally wouldnt be a safe bet to go much smaller then a 16" wheel with those?

Boilermaker1

They're stock ITR brakes, given ITRs came with 15s, I'd say you can stick a 15 on there. Just be advised the caliper is substantially wider than the stock ones. They definitely sit closer to the inside of the wheel spokes. I don't know the stock ITR offset, but I'd be careful with sticking these on with stock Civic wheels.

Redline96LX

P.S.

EX brakes are 10.3", ITR are 11.1".

Those rotors are from a Prelude VTEC I'm guessing, cause the ITR is a 5 lug, the Lude VTEC is 4x114.3.

Nice kit tho, my ITR calipers are filthy, those are spankin clean.



This is a good way to grind off the bracket if you have a friend with a milling machine to assure there 100% parallel. .127 inches, or just over 3.2mm was grinded off, and rotor is spaced right between the collar, nice and perfect.

Boilermaker1

^^^ well, yeah, thats the way I wish I could have done it. I honestly would have paid fastbrakes an extra 80 or 100 bucks to buzz them off in a mill, but they don't.
gimme about 20 minutes on a track and they'll be jet black.... and I'll have no motivation to clean them off either.