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#1 | |||||
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Farmington, MN, USA
Posts: 4,147
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#2 |
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"half moon thingy on compressor side"
Nice ![]() Pretty much what i did for my t3/t04e though there are some different parts for the t0re compressora /edit: forgot to say that half moon thingy is the thrust bearing
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#3 |
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Member
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lol i love gatorade!!!! good write up too. ms paint is the best!
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Farmington, MN, USA
Posts: 4,147
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Hey, if I knew the technical term and threw it out there, I'd get a million questions like "what's the discumbobulator retaining half spherical connector?" or whatever it's really called.
Between you and me, we'll keep it real.
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#5 |
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New User
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So how come it cost almost a new turbo to rebuild a turbo? Am I missing something here.
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#6 | |
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Quote:
people are stupid enough to pay it /edit: and when they rebalance it they charge u lots of money because they can; 7 out of 10 cases it doesn't need to be rebalanced; especially if you keep the wheels lineed up with one another |
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#7 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Here in, Texas
Posts: 1,058
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Great job Steve...now for the advanced super scientific double blind product testing!!
With Garrett's interest in the aftermarket really starting to peak, I think it'll be interesting to see turbos become more and more modular. Just the other day I noticed that Garrett has now made available their BB CHRA's to be retrofitted into existing turbos. It would be great to have wider availability of various turbo components to keep them from being so disposable. Quote:
Quote:
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#8 |
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New User
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I didn't get it, but anyways, where do you buy these rebuild kits? If I were to rebuild my GT35e for example.
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#9 |
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Nice writeup Steve
Isn't the wife going to be pissed about that towel?
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The beast from the east Homemadeturbo whore http://images.honda-tech.com/set1/smile/emthup.gif Turbooptions.com Wang's Autospec |
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#10 | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Mesa, Az, USA
Posts: 537
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Quote:
and hopefully it is still balanced well enough to go a while, but it usually cost a bit more because the wheels get balanced and they make sure that the shaft is with in speccs for the bearings. So how much do you people pay for Turbo rebuilds?
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Servion tuned93 4dr Honda Civic TO4 R 631 whp 438TQ 1.6 60' 11.4 @ 122 on 15 psi |
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#11 |
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Member
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very entertaining
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I prefer power through technology, not displacement. |
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#12 | |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Somewhere in California
Posts: 4,393
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Quote:
This might help a little with your writeup: TURBO PARTS LIST |
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#13 |
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Very enjoyable read.
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Currently in the process of building a 300HP LS-T Need: Need bearings, and few other misc parts. HMT For Life |
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#14 |
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Member
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i just did the same thing to a .48/.60! i took the exhaust side of a volvo i had, with blown seals in the chra, and threw the compressor side from a .60/.63 ford turbo.
it rocks, i love it. i had precision balance it for 60 bucks though, because i was scared. it probably would have been fine though.
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custom EF traction bar and a cheap K24 for sale too! PM! WTB: useable h22 of h23 block/girdle..no crank needed |
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#15 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 5,731
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Nice work
Did you replace the comressor seal as well? Or did you just do the bearings? I had to replace the compressor seal on my turbo because it was leaking oil terribly. Oh, here's a little better picture of the clips you were talking about that hold the bearings in place.
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#16 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Boost is good
Posts: 3,151
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I needa replace my compressor seal also.
Wonder what this will cost me. Good shit....
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I <3 Boost! |
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#17 |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Farmington, MN, USA
Posts: 4,147
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I bought the kit from someone who had already purchased it. I'm pretty sure they are on ebay ect. for somewhere in the neighborhood of $60-$100.
I didn't replace the compressor seal. All I did was take the center section apart and whatever parts I could take out, I matched them up with the parts from the rebuild kit and replaced them. If I couldn't take it out (which I didn't see anything else that looked like it would come out) or if there wasn't a matching part in the rebuild kit, I didn't replace it. I'm a simpleton by choice. I think the reason why people charge so much to do this is probably because they have lots of money in machinery that checks all the little technical things. If the turbo didn't cost $150, and it wasn't going into a $400 car, than I may have been able to help them pay off those machines, but I tend to not be that guy. lol I bought my 92 hatch in prime condition with a bad headgasket for $500. The kid that owned it before was quoted $1000 to change the headgasket, when I did it with $30 and 4 hours of my time. Again, it all comes down to people not having the knowledge, being scared, or being lazy. Without those things you can save a bunch of money in life. Cars or otherwise.
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#18 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Fighting the man 8 days a week in, AZ, USA
Posts: 350
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Quote:
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#19 | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: abbotsford, bc, canada
Posts: 968
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i think the most important thing was missed..
marking the turbine and the shaft so when u put it all back toghther its nice and balanced..
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Quote:
KW V1 coilovers |
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#20 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Pearl City, HI, USA
Posts: 2,451
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Yeah, nice writup. However I don't see you replacing the metal ring turbine seal, which is arguably the reason you need to rebuild a turbo most of the time. And I also don't see you making any attempt to keep the turbine balanced...
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#21 |
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Junior Member
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This is one of the best write ups I've ever read! Great job! I'm actually thinking of rebuilding my turbo also. Have some shaft plays. I wonder if replacing the parts will cure the problems?
Again, the thinging is awesome!
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"Je pense, donc je suis" - Descartes |
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#22 |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Farmington, MN, USA
Posts: 4,147
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The turbo didn't seem to have more shaft play than any other used turbo I've ever come accross, but after the rebuild there is absolutely no shaft play at all. This thing is m4D tYt3.
I missed putting it in the write up, but I did mark the compressor wheel and the shaft, however, when puttting it all back together, the tightening force needed to tighten the nut made the wheel turn when the shaft didn't. It's close, but the lines aren't matched up. Needless to say, if I was worried about it, I would have taken it off and redid it. I figured it was either the lines being off a bit, or one of the blades of the compressor wheel breaking from me trying to hold on to it and torque the nut. Oh, and the metal ring turbine seal. There was one "c-clip looking" ring near the turbine side that I didnt' take out. The closest thing I had to it in the rebuild kit was a similar sized c- clip that looked like a little piston ring (exactly), but what I thought it was to replace (the only other thing in the turbo) was a complete 360* washer type deal. I figured if there wasn't a gap in the one in the turbo, than I shouldn't go through the trouble of breaking it out to put one WITH a gap in it. It just didn't seem logical, and my logistics meter told me I did the right thing.
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#23 |
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: We Cant Stop Here This Is Bat Country
Posts: 45
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good effort...but at 110K RPM is it gonna hold together since it is now unbalanced?
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#24 |
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Junior Member
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I rebuilt a .63/.60 t3 from a 300z with a rebuild kit from turbocity.com for my daily driver almost 4 years ago and at that time I did not know it needed to be balanced so I put it back together complelety unbalanced. 4 years later and the turbo is still going as strong as ever with no problems and it probably has well over 50k miles on it.
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#25 |
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Member
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where would u get a rebuild kit for a greddy 18g turbo? is it possible to make a normal turbo ball bearing?
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