D.I.Y. / FAQ - OBD-0 --> OBD-1 Pinouts and Conversion Help

[dr_latino999]

This is what I have established so far from an MPFI OBD-0 to OBD-1 wiring harness jumper. I will figure out OBD-1 ECU to OBD-0 chassis in a bit, I.E wires that have to be run back into the engine. CORRECTIONS ARE WELCOME UPDATE #10 KEY XXXXXXXXXXXX Not Used ?????????????? What Goes here? OBD-0 || OBD-1 HARNESS CONNECTIONS: PROOF-READ BY TURBOGIXXER Further assistance and commentary by vtecn8ive Thanks to sanimalp for converting this table to vBulletin format A01 - INJ #1 || A01 - INJ #1 A02 - PG1 || A23 - PG1 A03 - INJ #2 || A03 - INJ #2 A04 - PG2 || A24 - PG2 A05 - INJ #3 || A05 - INJ #3 A06 - PCS || A20 - PCS A07 - INJ #4 || A02 - INJ #4 A08 - LOCKSOL || XXXXXXXXXXX A09 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXXXX A10 - EGR CSV|| A11 A11 - IACV || A09 - IACV A12 - FLR1 || A07 - FLR1 A13 - IGP1 || A25 - IGP1 A14 - FLR2 || A08 - FLR2 A15 - IGP2 || B01 - IGP2 A16 - GRD || A26 - LG1 A17 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXXXX A18 - GRD || B02 - LG2 B01 - VBP || D01 - VBU B02 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXXXX B03 - ACC || A15 - ACC B04 - FANC || A12 - FANC B05 - ALT || A16 - ALT B06 - MIL || A13 - MIL B07 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXXXX B08 - ACS || B05 - ACS B09 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXXXX B10 - CYP P || B11 - CYP P B11 - FUSEBOX|| xxxxxxxxxxxx B12 - CYP M || B12 - CYP M B13 - FUSEBOX|| B09 - STARTER B14 - ALT || D09 - ALT B15 - Igniti || A21 - ICM B16 - VSS || B10 - VSS B17 - Igniti || A22 - ICM B18 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXXXX B19 - ELD || D10 - ELD B20 - SCS || D04 - SCS C01 - CKP P || B15 - CKP P C02 - CKP M || B16 - CKP M C03 - TDC P || B13 - TDC P C04 - TDC M || B14 - TDC M C05 - IAT || D15 - IAT C06 - ECT || D13 - ECT C07 - TPS || D11 - TPS C08 - EGR VLS|| D12 C09 - PA || NOTUSEDXXXXX C10 - BKSW || D02 - BKSW C11 - MILGRND|| D17 - MAP C12 - SG2 || D22 - SG2 C13 - VCC1 || D19 - VCC1 C14 - SG1 || D21 - SG1 C15 - VCC2 || D20 - VCC2 C16 - O2S || D14 - PHO2S OBD-1 || OBD-0 ECU CONNECTIONS A01 - INJ #1 || A01 - INJ #1 A02 - INJ #4 || A07 - INJ #4 A03 - INJ #2 || A03 - INJ #2 A04 - VTEC || RUN TO ENGINE BAY A05 - INJ #3 || A05 - INJ #3 A06 - PO2SHTC|| RUN TO ENGINE BAY A07 - FLR1 || A12 - FLR1 A08 - FLR2 || A14 - FLR2 A09 - IACV || A11 - IACV A10 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXX A11 - EGR CSV|| A10 - EGR CSV A12 - FANC || B04 - FANC A13 - MIL || BO6 - MIL A14 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXX A15 - ACC || B03 - ACC A16 - ALT || B05 - ALT A17 - IAB CS || RUN TO ENGINE BAY (B18C1 Only) A18 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXX A19 - FAS || RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY) A20 - PCS || A06 - PCS A21 - ICM || B15 - IGNITION A22 - ICM || B17 - IGNITION A23 - PG1 || A02 - PG1 A24 - PG2 || A04 - PG2 A25 - IGP1 || A13 - IGP1 A26 - LG1 || A16 - GRD B01 - IGP2 || A15 - IGP2 B02 - LG2 || A18 - GRD B03 - AFSA || RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY) B04 - AFSB || RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY) B05 - ACS || B08 ACS B06 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXX B07 - ATP PN || RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY) B08 - PSPSW || Power steering Load - HARDWIRE (PS ONLY) B09 - STS || B13 - FUSEBOX B10 - VSS || B16 - VSS B11 - CYP P || B10 - CYP P B12 - CYP M || B12 - CYP M B13 - TDC P || C03 - TDC P B14 - TDC M || C04 - TDC M B15 - CKP P || C01 - CKP P B16 - CKP M || C02 - CKP M D01 - VBU || B01 - VBP D02 - BKSW || C10 - BKSW D03 - KS || RUN TO ENGINE BAY (If Using B-Series Motor) D04 - SCS || B20 - SCS D05 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXXX D06 - VTP SW || RUN TO ENGINE BAY D07 - TXD/RXD|| XXXXXXXXXXXX D08 - BAROOUT|| RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY) D09 - ALT || B14 - ALT D10 - ELD || B19 - ELD D11 - TPS || C07 - TPS D12 - EGR VLS|| C08 - EGR VLS D13 - ECT || C06 - ECT D14 - PHO2S || C16 - O2S D15 - IAT || C05 - IAT D16 - VREF || RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY) D17 - MAP || C11 - MILGRND D18 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXXX D19 - VCC1 || C13 - VCC1 D20 - VCC2 || C15 - VCC2 D21 - SG1 || C14 - SG1 D22 - SG2 || C12 - SG2 *Image provided by sanimalp Motor before placement in bay, harness has already been wired for OBD-1 Components. As you can see, I got creative with placement of the injector resistor box as I am still using OBD-0 injectors. Extra wires for Oxygen Sensor Heater, VTEC Pressure Switch, and VTEC Solenoid. The other plug is from the MPFI addition last year. Interior harness after conversion, wires in A/D plug still have to be wrapped as they are waiting for the addition of VTEC and VTEC Pressure. How you put a motor in by yourself in 30 minutes Completed interior harness, so fresh and so clean. Here you can see where the extra wires are sneaking out into the Engine Bay. And the passenger side of the engine bay where all the harness meets and greats itself. Now all it needs is a heart, I mean ECU. Ok, ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, I have fixed the Oxygen sensor heating issue. For the record, this is the correct destination for the wires at the oxygen sensor plug and their destinations with the harness- Orange/Black - Heater (ECU A6) Grey(WHITE) - Signal (ECU D14) Yellow/Black - Injector 12 Volt Green/White - Ground Oxygen Sensor Proper, to the plug Orange/Black --&gt; Black Grey(White) --&gt; White Yellow/Black --&gt; Black Green/White --&gt; Green <FONT SIZE="3">REFERENCE</FONT> http://www.sohchonda.com/forums/inde...howtopic=10073 <FONT SIZE="3">Adding OBD-1 Injectors</FONT> OBD-0 MPFI W/ Injector Resistor Box HOW-TO Delete The Box Modified by dr_latino999 at 7:19 PM 4/14/2007 Modified by dr_latino999 at 11:11 AM 4/19/2007 Modified by dr_latino999 at 11:12 AM 2/14/2008 Modified by dr_latino999 at 8:39 AM 10/15/2008 Modified by dr_latino999 at 8:39 AM 10/15/2008 Modified by dr_latino999 at 8:39 AM 10/15/2008

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[vegaskurt]

Bump and subscribed. Im making my own jumper.

[dr_latino999]

Mooching off of my blood, sweat and research are we? Lol, here are all the links I have used so far to compile this information.

1) http://tech2.hybridgarage.com/...pr3_a
2) http://www.gutterslide.com/fou....html
3) http://tech2.hybridgarage.com/..._obd1
4) http://www.hondata.com/techwiringgsr.html
5) http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1046344
6) http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...-OBD1

[elmalouno]

i think what you are trying to do is cool, and the info would be great. trouble is its bad for business. there are a few people on here that could help you with out thinking about it. but if people can make there own jumper and be sure of the info, its going to get alot harder to sell those neat and tidy jumpers for 150 bux.

[Turbogixxer]

Originally Posted by elmalouno

i think what you are trying to do is cool, and the info would be great. trouble is its bad for business. there are a few people on here that could help you with out thinking about it. but if people can make there own jumper and be sure of the info, its going to get alot harder to sell those neat and tidy jumpers for 150 bux.

Not really. Consider that he is using junkyard and putting alot of time into just soldering it. People that look to buy pre-made harness will not look into make them. Not everyone has the time to make this AND trouble shoot it if it has a problem.

This is a OBD1 pinout I put together a while ago, Here

Many people have stolen it.

[dr_latino999]

Originally Posted by Turbogixxer

Not really. Consider that he is using junkyard and putting alot of time into just soldering it. People that look to buy pre-made harness will not look into make them. Not everyone has the time to make this AND trouble shoot it if it has a problem.

Exactly, I spent 6 hours yesterday researching and connecting and still maybe cleared 11 connections out of 40 some.

[Turbogixxer]

Originally Posted by dr_latino999

A14 - FLR2 --> ???????????? --> Possible A08 on OBD-1 Side, Is this correct?

Yes, A7 or A8, they are the same thing

Originally Posted by dr_latino999

B13 - FUSEBOX--> ???????????? --> Possible B09 on OBD-1 Side, Main Relay?

You are right about B9, but it is the starter input.

Originally Posted by dr_latino999

B17 - Igniti --> ???????????? --> Possible A22 on OBD-1 Side, Ignitor Unit?

Corrrect, A21 or A22, same thing.
Same for B15

Originally Posted by dr_latino999

C09 - PA --> ????????????

No need for it, PA sensor is in a OBD1 and controlled in there.

Originally Posted by dr_latino999

C11 - MILGRND--> ???????????? --> Possible D17 on OBD-1 Side, MAP?

That is MAP signal, You are correct thou, it is D17.


I may have skiped over some, I will get back to them.

[dr_latino999]

Ok, the only question now remains with B11 and we will have the whole OBD-0 harness figured out.

Originally Posted by Dr_Latino999

B11 - FUSEBOX--> ???????????? N0T USED IN OBD-1 ?

Where does this go?

[Turbogixxer]

Originally Posted by dr_latino999

Ok, the only question now remains with B11 and we will have the whole OBD-0 harness figured out.

Where does this go?

I know where it goes, but I have to double check it.

[vegaskurt]

Originally Posted by Turbogixxer

Not really. Consider that he is using junkyard and putting alot of time into just soldering it. People that look to buy pre-made harness will not look into make them. Not everyone has the time to make this AND trouble shoot it if it has a problem.

I agree, this will be nice for the DIY people that like to solder and trouble shoot. But for everyone else, paying $100 for something that is guaranteed to work is money well spent. Now if the jumper harnesses were $49.95 I dont think anyone would be trying to make one

Kinda suprised no-body from rywire has chimed in on this.

[beyondspexj]

i agree as i bought mine. needed things done right the first time and had no time for me to learn about doing it from scratch.

[dr_latino999]

Originally Posted by beyondspecs_jamar

i agree as i bought mine. needed things done right the first time and had no time for me to learn about doing it from scratch.

I would have but for the following - OBD-0 to OBD-1 VTEC is $190, and that is $10 less then the motor. If I can figure this out on my own, well then, YAY!!

[dr_latino999]

Originally Posted by dr_latino999

My OBD-1 Clips have no wire nor prong at A22, is that a normal occurence or is this wire to be wired to OBD-0 B15 along with OBD-1 A21?

?

Originally Posted by Turbogixxer

I know where it goes, but I have to double check it.

Were you able to double check it?

[elmalouno]

Originally Posted by vegaskurt

Kinda suprised no-body from rywire has chimed in on this.

this is what i meant by my post.... the reason we haven't heard from the "experts"

[vegaskurt]

Originally Posted by elmalouno

this is what i meant by my post.... the reason we haven't heard from the "experts"

Not to mention most threads that involve wiring or a obd conversion quickly turn into an advertisement for one of the experts.

[Turbogixxer]

Originally Posted by dr_latino999

is that a normal occurence or is this wire to be wired to OBD-0 B15 along with OBD-1 A21?

Yes, you only "need" only ICM signal. Be sides the point, A21 and A22 are the same thing, just like B15 and B17 are on OBD0

Originally Posted by dr_latino999

Were you able to double check it?

Yes, I was, you do not need it. It is for the gear selector.

Originally Posted by dr_latino999

A10 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX

A10 - EGR control solenoid vavle --> A11

Originally Posted by dr_latino999

C08 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX

C8 - EGR valve lift sensor signal --> D12

[Malgerus]

Heh I did this three years ago, I used Storminmatt's guide, not sure if it's still kicking around. It was perfect except for the distributor wiring.

[dr_latino999]

Originally Posted by dr_latino999

B08 - PSPSW --> ??????????
D07 - TXD/RXD--> ???????????
D10 - ELD --> ???????????

What do I do with these three OBD-1 wires coming off the ECU?

[Turbogixxer]

B08 - PSPSW --> It is a power steering load detector, if you do not have PS, no need. IF you do, you have to hard wire it. One side of the switch goes to B8, the other side goes to a ground.

D07 - TXD/RXD--> This is the data link connector. It for a scan tool. One side goes to D7 and the other goes to D22.

D10 - ELD --> B19. Yes, I know it says knock sensor, but JDM ECUs do not have a load detector like USDM ones have. D3 is for OBD1 knock sensor input. REMEMBER to have use a shielded wire the KS input.

Originally Posted by dr_latino999

I believe the chart for OBD-0 to OBD-1 is complete, and for reference, ground OBD-1 Pin D4 to check for engine codes.

BTW, if you have B20 --> D4, you do not need to ground D4, the ignition adjust connector (service connector) will do it for you.

Anything else?

BTW, not props to turbogixxer? It is on

[vtecn8ive]

great info guys I was looking to do this now I am just sticking it out with a pr4 (obdo) chipped for vtec . But I hope to do this in the future. So this list is being updated as you do it?

-Shane

[Turbogixxer]

Originally Posted by dr_latino999

Ok, let me see what I can do.

Dude, I do not see it.

[Turbogixxer]

NOTE: if you have a Dual injector set up (1.5L) You need to add:

B11-CYP P CYP -P Orange, CYP sensor input, N/A
B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, N/A

They have to be shielded wires too.

[dr_latino999]

Originally Posted by Turbogixxer

They have to be shielded wires too.

And for reference as well, B11, B13, and B15 on OBD-1 have to be shielded as well, correct?

Originally Posted by vtecn8ive

o this list is being updated as you do it? -Shane

Pretty much, as I gather more information I compile it so when I go to cut everything (my jumper is only covering certain odd numbered pins, don't ask) I know everything will be correct; and it helps the D.I.Y. people.

[Turbogixxer]

Yes, They have low voltage (at times) so if they are not sheilded wires, they will get "noise" from other stronger currents moving next to them.

B11-B16 are all shielded.

[goforbroke]

Damn you guys have me tempeted to make my own. So what are you guys doing going to junkyard and getting any 0bd ecu taking the connector plugs from the ecu and then doing the same to a obd1 ecu and matching the pins together to each signal.