Autozone rotors

[Stinkycheezmonky]

I should've clarified that, Claude. Thank you for the additional information

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[descartesfool]

I had some custom rotors made by Coleman this year, thinking that they might be better than the rest. Ran them with Carbotech XP12 pads. Fast car, hard braking track. Both front and rear rotors were ventilated and both front and rear ones cracked. I just had to assume that they are not made of any better steel. Might have to try some AP Racing (aka very expensive) ones. They say they use better alloys and heat treat, etc, etc. Maybe they do, maybe they don't, maybe their rotors last longer. Well over half the field at the ALMS race at Mosport were running AP Racing calipers and rotors, so they must know something. The faster you go the harder you are on brakes. It's that darn mv^2 energy dissipation thing. That velocity squared term really kills you in the braking dept.

[nsxtasy]

Originally Posted by Hemix

So I guess my real question is, for you guys who run "Autozone rotors", do you get the Valucraft ones or the Duralast ones?

I get the Duralast ones. And in my experience (largely track use), they last as long or longer than the stock and aftermarket (e.g. Powerslot) ones I had been using.

I just recently installed a pair of the "Duralast Gold" rotors, which are an upgrade from the regular Duralast ones. I don't yet know whether they will last longer though.

Originally Posted by Stinkycheezmonky

The Duralast that are twice as much money do not have twice the guarantee

Yes, they do. The Duralast rotors have a two-year warranty, and the Valucraft ones have a one-year warranty. The Duralast Gold rotors have a three-year warranty.

Originally Posted by Hemix

My real worry was more of sudden catastrophic on the track. In my head I just imagine the rotor getting hot and shattering or getting a massive crack that causes loss in the ability to brake as well as damage to the braking system and that was my worry with cheap rotors. But, it seems like people's concerns with cheap rotors are their life-span.

Yup. In my experience, rotors don't just shatter. With track use, they go through heat-and-cool cycles in which they expand and contract. After a number of these cycles - the number can vary - they begin to form spiderweb-looking stress cracks, and with more cycles, the cracks begin to open up. I like to replace rotors when the cracks begin to open up to the point where they're around 10-12 mm (1/2 inch) long, which is about when you can feel them with the tip of your fingernail (don't try this when the rotors are hot!). I keep track of how many track miles I put on them until they reach that point.

Note that the cracks open up as the rotors cool down, and they fill in as they heat up. So you may not feel anything on the track, but after the car cools down, you may feel big vibrations driving around the paddock or back to the hotel. Check them when they're cool, before starting a session, rather than after you come off the track when they're hot.

Originally Posted by Hemix

I think I will try them out. If they are dead in a few months, then I will have wasted $40 and learned a good lesson. If they work for 2 years then I will have saves $40+ and learned a good lesson.

Sounds good. Remember, rotors (like pads, and tires) are consumable parts that you will continue replacing, over and over again, so you can try out one kind, and if you're not that happy with it, just try something else the next time you need to replace them.

[Lo-Buck EF]

Originally Posted by Stinkycheezmonky

Anytime, buddy!

Note: Spencer is a braking wizard. I still don't know how the hell he pulls this off.

11" rotors on a 2400lb car (with driver) no ducting. if i could cool the rotors -or- put spoon calipers on to get equal clamping force, the rotors would last even longer
i think i use the brakes less now then when we used to run together.

[Stinkycheezmonky]

Warranty /= guarantee. I was talking about the rotors not failing

Originally Posted by Lo-Buck EF

11" rotors on a 2400lb car (with driver) no ducting. if i could cool the rotors -or- put spoon calipers on to get equal clamping force, the rotors would last even longer
i think i use the brakes less now then when we used to run together.

I'm sure you do, I know you've gotten consistently faster I told Erik I'd love to run with you guys at some point, although I'm pretty sure you'd all leave me in the dust now

[get RIGHT]

Originally Posted by nsxtasy

I just recently installed a pair of the "Duralast Gold" rotors, which are an upgrade from the regular Duralast ones. I don't yet know whether they will last longer though.

Do you recall the price difference between the Gold's and regular Duralast rotors?

[Lo-Buck EF]

Originally Posted by Stinkycheezmonky

I told Erik I'd love to run with you guys at some point, although I'm pretty sure you'd all leave me in the dust now

the speeds are so broad you'd have someone to run with.

[Stinkycheezmonky]

Yeah, but you and Erik are the ones I'm concerned about

[Hemix]

According to the Autozone by my house, the Valucraft rotors have a 2 year warranty and the Duralast Golds have a 3 year warranty, just for anyone else looking.

Thank you all for you help! You guys are awesome!

[Crazy4Honda]

I have used both the value craft and the Duralast rotors and i killed the Valucraft so bad, lasted almost 1 track event, the duralast actually lasted a decent amout of time, but after killing those i finally just went to the brembo blanks, my brake set up is the legend dual piston caliper with 11.1 inch with pbr axxis ultimate and i have found that the brembo blanks are cheaper and better than the duralast gold

[nsxtasy]

Originally Posted by get RIGHT

Do you recall the price difference between the Gold's and regular Duralast rotors?

For the ITR front, the Duralast Gold is $48.99 each, and the regular Duralast is $33.99 each. The Valucraft is not available for the ITR front.

If you're ordering from the web rather than for store pickup, they have free shipping for orders of $75 or more. You can usually find the regular Duralast in stock at their stores, whereas you'll probably need to order the Duralast gold from the web.

Pricing sometimes varies from one geographical location to another (although not usually from one store to another in the same metro area).

Originally Posted by Hemix

According to the Autozone by my house, the Valucraft rotors have a 2 year warranty and the Duralast Golds have a 3 year warranty, just for anyone else looking.

Not true. If they told you that, they were mistaken. Look on their website and see for yourself.

[RED_90TEG]

i run rotors that cost 18 dollars and have no name on them they come in a fake cardboard box ! str8 from the ghetto in china ! a 7 year old girl made it ! good luck bro !

[get RIGHT]

Originally Posted by nsxtasy

For the ITR front, the Duralast Gold is $48.99 each, and the regular Duralast is $33.99 each. The Valucraft is not available for the ITR front.

If you're ordering from the web rather than for store pickup, they have free shipping for orders of $75 or more. You can usually find the regular Duralast in stock at their stores, whereas you'll probably need to order the Duralast gold from the web.

Pricing sometimes varies from one geographical location to another (although not usually from one store to another in the same metro area).

Thats exactly what I found out when I called them. Thanks Ken.

[DEIVIONCRX]

Ive been running the Raybestos rotors from RockAuto.com, they are cheeper than Valuecraft and Duralast now. I used to pick up the Valuecrafts for $10-12, now they are going for $20+, the Raybestos are $14.99 i think still.

[GBRacing]

Brembo are always my first choice (buybrakes.com). I've use the cheap ones before and some luck but they are hit or miss. Brembo's always seems to last quite bit without warping.

[heel_touge]

I have been using the duralast for a couple years now.
recently I have been getting a LOT of material transfer on them leading to tons of shimmy.
it works itself off then a few sessions later its back.
is this from the rotor or is it from the pad or the user?

does everyones RPM's fluctuate when pressing the brakes?
I think i may need a new booster and or master because i cant keep a solid pedal feel. I found a leak in my lines but something still isn't right.

I have had hit or miss duralast.
mr. Adam can attest to that. I BELIEVE he was in my car when i realized the duralast rotor with only one event on it split.

[Stinkycheezmonky]

-My RPMs do NOT fluctuate under braking.

-I WAS in the car when you realized that That unfortunately was not a first for me