DIY rear tie bar with reinforced sway bar mount
#1
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DIY rear tie bar with reinforced sway bar mount
I was looking at the ASR setup the other day and thought, "Hell, I can do that".
I've been using a cheap ebay tie bar and a Beak's kit for my 24mm rear bar, but I figured something like this might be more solid (EM1 rear suspension mounts are unbelievably flimsy, I got to compare them to the ones on an ITR the other day and it's completely different.), and I like to make stuff.
Parts required:
6061-T6 aluminum flat bar, .5"x4.5"x48" (that's too long, but I'll use the extra for something) - $31 @ ebay
Two M10x100x1.25 grade 8 bolts - $6 @ Ace Hardware
40 washers, big enough to fit over the bolts (I didn't need all 40, but it's good to have extra to use as shims) - $3.60 @ Ace Hardware
tube of Superglue - $1 @ a convenience store
Two 4.5" cutting wheels for my angle grinder - $4 @ Lowe's
I made a template out of heavy cardboard from a box and fit it in place just like the real thing, making sure the holes for the bolts were in the right place, then I used the cardboard template to mark where to cut and drill the aluminum flat bar. To make it fit flat on the car I used the washers to make shims at each bolt hole (on the back side of the bar), then I glued the stacks of washers to the bar just to hold them there for assembly until I tightened down the bolts. It took a couple of hours to make it, and it's not as pretty as some other bars out there, but I think it does the job. The sway bar bolts go through the subframe and into the backing plates from the Beak's kit, but I could have easily cut backing pieces out of the aluminum and drilled/tapped them, but the Beak's kit pieces were just sitting there, no sense letting them go to waste.
Here's the pics of the finished product on the car:
I've been using a cheap ebay tie bar and a Beak's kit for my 24mm rear bar, but I figured something like this might be more solid (EM1 rear suspension mounts are unbelievably flimsy, I got to compare them to the ones on an ITR the other day and it's completely different.), and I like to make stuff.
Parts required:
6061-T6 aluminum flat bar, .5"x4.5"x48" (that's too long, but I'll use the extra for something) - $31 @ ebay
Two M10x100x1.25 grade 8 bolts - $6 @ Ace Hardware
40 washers, big enough to fit over the bolts (I didn't need all 40, but it's good to have extra to use as shims) - $3.60 @ Ace Hardware
tube of Superglue - $1 @ a convenience store
Two 4.5" cutting wheels for my angle grinder - $4 @ Lowe's
I made a template out of heavy cardboard from a box and fit it in place just like the real thing, making sure the holes for the bolts were in the right place, then I used the cardboard template to mark where to cut and drill the aluminum flat bar. To make it fit flat on the car I used the washers to make shims at each bolt hole (on the back side of the bar), then I glued the stacks of washers to the bar just to hold them there for assembly until I tightened down the bolts. It took a couple of hours to make it, and it's not as pretty as some other bars out there, but I think it does the job. The sway bar bolts go through the subframe and into the backing plates from the Beak's kit, but I could have easily cut backing pieces out of the aluminum and drilled/tapped them, but the Beak's kit pieces were just sitting there, no sense letting them go to waste.
Here's the pics of the finished product on the car:
#2
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Re: DIY rear tie bar with reinforced sway bar mount (rmcdaniels)
not a bad idea. not somethign im going to be emulating since i already have the asr, but it looks pretty damn sturdy. not the prettiest of pieces though
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...into the backing plates from the Beak's kit</TD></TR></TABLE> very good idea, hooray surface area! that and extending the forces from the swaybar over a larger area AND connecting them to the lca bolt should do exactly what the asr does in a less polished (and much cheaper) package.
still, very well done
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...into the backing plates from the Beak's kit</TD></TR></TABLE> very good idea, hooray surface area! that and extending the forces from the swaybar over a larger area AND connecting them to the lca bolt should do exactly what the asr does in a less polished (and much cheaper) package.
still, very well done
#3
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Thread Starter
Re: DIY rear tie bar with reinforced sway bar mount (Voyage34)
Thanks, I figured if it came out crappy I'd buy the ASR bar, but I think it came out pretty good. It's not the prettiest thing ever, but it's solid and it fits right.
#4
Re: DIY rear tie bar with reinforced sway bar mount (rmcdaniels)
Is there space between the plate and the subframe? If you look at the asr, it comes with a piece that goes between the brace and the subframe. The comptech bar is not flat but has a protruding plateau so that it may lay on the subframe flat. Get my drift?
Take a look at this:
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2
scroll down below half way until you see the asr picture.
Take a look at this:
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2
scroll down below half way until you see the asr picture.
#5
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Thread Starter
Re: DIY rear tie bar with reinforced sway bar mount (dc2nonjdm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2nonjdm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there space between the plate and the subframe? If you look at the asr, it comes with a piece that goes between the brace and the subframe. The comptech bar is not flat but has a protruding plateau type so hat it may lay on the subframe flat. Get my drift?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, that's what the washers are for. I shimmed it with washers at each bolt-hole so that it is flat on the sub-frame when bolted down with no gaps. Where the LCA bolt goes in was the biggest gap, it took a good-sized stack of washers to fill it in. It only took 2-3 washers to shim it up by the sway bar mounting bolts.
Yes, that's what the washers are for. I shimmed it with washers at each bolt-hole so that it is flat on the sub-frame when bolted down with no gaps. Where the LCA bolt goes in was the biggest gap, it took a good-sized stack of washers to fill it in. It only took 2-3 washers to shim it up by the sway bar mounting bolts.
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Re: DIY rear tie bar with reinforced sway bar mount (rmcdaniels)
Nice write-up! I've been waiting to see when somebody would do this.
It might be good to get some spacers like BSQ uses instead of washers. I personally would rather have a flat black setup like this than a flashy ASR one. I need to stop being lazy and get to work.
It might be good to get some spacers like BSQ uses instead of washers. I personally would rather have a flat black setup like this than a flashy ASR one. I need to stop being lazy and get to work.
#7
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Re: DIY rear tie bar with reinforced sway bar mount (EG6_GUY)
I thought about the spacers and it would be good to have them, but by the time that I made something like that it would be easier to cough up $180 for the ASR bar. I think the only place it would matter is for the sway bar mount, like the BSQ spacers, but I'm thinking that mounting the sway bar to a piece of .5" aluminum that's mounted to the LCA bolts should take the stress off of the sway bar mounting points on the LCA's. I'll update the thread if it ruins my **** next time I take it to the track.
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Re: DIY rear tie bar with reinforced sway bar mount (rmcdaniels)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought about the spacers and it would be good to have them, but by the time that I made something like that it would be easier to cough up $180 for the ASR bar.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That makes sense. I guess I'd rather use washers and finish something, for once.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll update the thread if it ruins my **** next time I take it to the track.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please do. Best of luck to you.
That makes sense. I guess I'd rather use washers and finish something, for once.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll update the thread if it ruins my **** next time I take it to the track.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please do. Best of luck to you.
#10
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Re: DIY rear tie bar with reinforced sway bar mount (gabebauman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gabebauman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not bad...giver a couple coats of flat black and she'll be lookin' good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice job man!
nice job man!
#12
Re: DIY rear tie bar with reinforced sway bar mount (sleeper101)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleeper101 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EG with : ASR + 22mm ITR = safe ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the eg's sway bar mounting points are positioned on a sturdier portion of the subframe, unlike the ek/em1's. so to answer your question, yes, it'll be more that safe on your eg
the eg's sway bar mounting points are positioned on a sturdier portion of the subframe, unlike the ek/em1's. so to answer your question, yes, it'll be more that safe on your eg
#15
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Re: (GarageAlchemist)
I remember when ASR was developing their reinforcement plate and showing the progress in a thread here on HT, taking suggestions along the way. My suggestion was to stop making the bar all fancy and keep it cheap.
I'd take your piece over the ASR anyday, and point and laugh at all the damn riceboy bandwagoners that jump all over anything once it gets scene approval, even if it means throwing hundreds of dollars down for something that could be made from scrap.
I got a Progress swaybar instead. No need for reinforcement on an EG.
I'd take your piece over the ASR anyday, and point and laugh at all the damn riceboy bandwagoners that jump all over anything once it gets scene approval, even if it means throwing hundreds of dollars down for something that could be made from scrap.
I got a Progress swaybar instead. No need for reinforcement on an EG.
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Re: DIY rear tie bar with reinforced sway bar mount (rmcdaniels)
I have a Speedtech rear tie bar. Your setup looks good, I like the DIY mentality. I am also drunk.
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Re: DIY rear tie bar with reinforced sway bar mount
don't mean to bring back this thread from the dead but the funny thing is i was planning to make a brace like this for my ED(EF) so i can run a ITR 22mm on a 88-91 civic/crx. to kill the squirreliness at high speed. and before anyone say you can't run a ASR/Kteller subframe on a 4th gen. it's possible just need a little Ffinesse. i leave you with this tid bit of info....
from 88-95 civic/crx and 88-01 integra from r/lca bolt to bolt it's exactly 26".
from 88-95 civic/crx and 88-01 integra from r/lca bolt to bolt it's exactly 26".
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