Honda and Acura Model Specific Forums

BauleyCivic · 10-01-2003, 10:24 AM

This thread has been going on for some time in the EG forum. I just re-wrote it with the step by step instructions from the helms. I see tons and tons of mini-me questions asked in this forum so I figured that having this thread here also might help some people. Yeah, I know it's all OBD-I, but a lot of the same basic principles apply. I will keep an eye on this thread to answer any questions that people might have. Enjoy!

Additional Links on Mini-Me's:
http://crx.honda-perf.org/arti....html
http://crx.honda-perf.org/arti....html
http://www.geocities.com/chacofgs/swap.html
http://www.geocities.com/c_rexboy/minime.html

Welcome to my D15 SOHC VTEC Mini-Me Writeup!
This is a write-up based on a 1992 D16Z6 head being bolted onto a 1993 Civic LX with a D15B7 block. Like Spade’s SOHC Upgrades thread, this is a continual work in progress. If you are thinking about doing a mini-me swap on your 92-95 Civic using a D16Z6 head, then this is the place to be. I will do a complete walkthrough of the mini-me, including a shopping list of parts, tools needed, how to perform the swap, important things to look out for, what to expect when you finish, and ideas for future modifications. These instructions are for 92-95 Civic D15B7 DX, LX mini-me’s, but most of the stuff can be applied to CX’s with pistons with reliefs for 4 valves as well. If you have a question about doing a mini-me on a non-OBD I car, you can PM me and I’ll see if I can help. Note: DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS SWAP ON A CIVIC VX, THE PISTONS HAVE TOO LARGE OF A DISH AND THE COMPRESSION WILL END UP BEING TOO LOW. Well…enough already let’s get to it!

1. What exactly is a “mini-me”?

A “mini-me” is an informal name for a D-Series SOHC VTEC head mated to a D-Series SOHC non-VTEC block. Most mini-me swaps consist of D16Y8 or D16Z6 heads onto USDM D15B, D16A6, or D16Y7 blocks. JDM D15b VTEC heads will work as well

2. Why should I do a mini-me swap?
I chose to do a mini-me swap after reading up on them and hearing that they put out a fair amount of power for how cheap they are. It is widely believed that this combination, with a thin D16Y8 head gasket, will produce a near 11:1 CR. However, after calculating the compression using the d-series compression calculator, I only came up with 10.1:1. To bump the compression a few more tenths, you can remove the middle layer from the Y8 head gasket. Theoretically, a stock mini-me with a Y8 head gasket should put out about as much power as a D16Z6, give or take a few horses. The raised compression makes up for the difference in displacement.

My 1993 Honda Civic LX sedan with a puny 102HP D15B7:

3. Okay, what parts do I need to buy?
For a Z6 mini-me swap you’ll need four basic things: a D16Z6 cylinder head (including valve cover, distributor, spark plugs, spark plug wires etc), D16Z6 timing belt, D16Y8 head gasket (D16Z6 works well also, but Y8 is a better, metal gasket) and P28 ECU (make sure you get an auto ECU for an auto, manual for manual).

IMPORTANT: Several places on the net and several people on Honda-Tech say that the VX (D15Z1) timing belt is the one to use for this swap because it is for a 1.5L VTEC. THIS IS INCORRECT! When I did the initial head swap, I used a VX timing belt. The VX timing belt was WAY too tight, and whined when the engine was at high rpm. I unfortunately did not discover this until the entire head was assembled. The VX timing belt has 103 teeth, where as the Z6 timing belt has 104 teeth, and the B7 belt 106 teeth. I was finally able to replace the VX timing belt with the Z6 timing belt, and the Z6 timing belt fit much better and didn’t whine. THE D16Z6 timing belt is the correct belt to use with a B7 block / Z6 head combination.

Note also: The D16Z6 and D15B7 spark plug wires are NOT interchangeable. You will need D16Z6 spark plug wires with this swap. Also, the 96-00 Civic EX’s have a 9.6:1 compression ratio, so the spark plugs from that motor will better with the higher compression than the stock Z6 ones. Honda Part # 98079-5614P, NGK ZFR6J-11.

You can use your stock intake and exhaust manifolds with the mini-me. All d-series manifolds are interchangeable. However, both the D16Z6 intake manifold and header flow much better than the D15’s…so if you can pick them up for a real cheap price, then definitely go for it. In addition to the main things, you’ll need little things, coolant and wire (to wire the VTEC solenoid and oil pressure to the ECU).

I however, wanted to make sure that the swap ran perfectly once I got it running so I picked up a few general maintenance things as well, such as a new distributor cap and rotor, new water pump, new spark plug wires, and a new valve cover gasket.

List of Parts:
Required:
D16Z6 Cylinder Head (Including distributor cap, valve cover, plugs/wires, VTEC solenoid, etc)
D16Z6 or D16Y8 Head Gasket
P28 ECU
D16Z6 Timing Belt
Wire and plug for VTEC oil pressure switch

Optional:
D16Z6 Intake Manifold
D16Z6 Exhaust Manifold
*If you remove your manifolds, make sure you get new gaskets

Recommended:
NEW OEM-
Water Pump (for the block you are using)
Spark Plugs (EX D16Y8)
Spark Plug Wires
Valve Cover Gasket
Distributor cap and rotor

I spent about $550 total when all was said and done. I paid $200 for the head, and $85 for the ECU. Random stuff kept adding up after that. $550 is comparable to a full Z6 swap, but remember this included a new timing belt, head gasket, etc.

Everything you need:

4. What tools will I need to do the job?
Well, 95% of the job can be done with a 3/8 inch ratchet, 10-19mm sockets, and a set of screwdrivers. However, you will need a torque wrench so that you can torque the head bolts down correctly, and you will also need access to an air wrench when you do your timing belt to get the crank pulley off. You will also need wire cutters, and some electrical tape for the wiring part.

5. Okay, I got all of the parts and tools, now how do I swap the heads?

Alright first what you’re gonna need to do is remove the cylinder head.

Here are the step by step instructions on how to take your head off (Taken from helms. I recommend you have the actual manual in front of you because it includes detailed pictures and diagrams):
1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Drain the coolant.
3. Relieve fuel pressure (take the gas cap off)
4. Remove the air flow tube (intake)
5. Remove the fuel feed hose and charcoal canister hose from the intake manifold.
6. Remove the throttle cable at the throttle body.
7. Remove the throttle control cable from the throttle body (A/T only).
8. Remove the fuel return hose and brake booster vacuum hose.
9. Remove the engine wire harness connectors and wire harness clamps from the cylinder head and intake manifold (Basically any hose or plug that’s connected to the intake manifold or head, needs to come off)
10. Disconnect spark plug wires at spark plugs and remove them from the distributor.
11. Remove the engine ground cable on the cylinder head cover.
12. Remove the power steering belt and pump (Do NOT disconnect the hoses)
13. Remove the power steering bracket (4 bolts)
14. Remove the emission vacuum hoses and water bypass hoses from intake manifold assembly (included in step 9)
15. Remove the radiator upper hose and heater hose from the cylinder head (included in step 9)
16. Remove the water bypass hose from the thermostat housing.
17. Remove the intake manifold bracket.
18. Remove the self locking nuts and disconnect the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe A.
19. Remove the exhaust manifold bracket.
20. Remove the PCV hose, then remove the cylinder head cover.
21. Remove the timing belt upper cover.
22. Loosen the timing belt adjusting bolt 180 degrees to release the belt tension.
23. Push the tensioner to release tension from the timing belt, then retighten the adjusting bolt.
24. Remove the belt from the cam pulley (gear)
25. Remove the cylinder head bolts, then remove the cylinder head (loosen bolts starting from the outside, then coming in).

Okay…now that your head is off…you should have something like this:

VERY IMPORTANT: If you have a D15 block (or any D-series block with an oil jet for that matter), you need to make sure that you remove the oil jet between cylinders 2 and 3 when you do this swap. If you don’t, you won’t have VTEC. I forgot to pull the oil jet out the first time. You won’t get a code, your ECU will say your solenoid is fine and everything is working great but VTEC will not actually engage. Make sure you remove the oil jet. I took a screw, screwed it into the oil jet, and then pulled it out with a pair of pliers.

With the oil jet in:

You take the oil jet out by driving a screw in, and then yanking it out with a pair of pliers:

The oil jet removed:

Ahhhh….much better:

After you’ve pulled the oil jet, you’ll need to sand down the block surface so that no gasket is left caked on the block. (You won’t have to worry about this anymore because hopefully you’ll be using a Y8 metal gasket). If you get shavings in the cylinders, then fill the cylinders with warm soapy water and float the shavings out. You’ll do this by turning the crank over a few times with a 17mm until all the water is out. Make sure that there is NO liquid in the cylinders or head bolt holes when you put the head back on (If there is, you can crack your block when you torque down the head bolts). If you are using the manifolds from your stock motor, all you’ll need to do is unbolt your intake manifold (with throttle body) off of your old head so that you are ready to put it on the Z6 head. It’s only 8 bolts.

Now, let’s put your new head on (Taken from helms. I recommend you have the actual manual in front of you because it includes detailed pictures and diagrams):
NOTE:
-You can reuse your D15B7 head bolts with the D16Z6 swap…they are the same size
-Always use a new head gasket
-If you are using your old intake manifold with the new head, make sure you use a new intake manifold gasket, same goes for throttle body. If you removed it, you need a new gasket.
-Cylinder head and engine block surface must be clean (no water or dirt…even in the head bolt holes)
-Turn the crankshaft so that No. 1 piston is at TDC.

1. Install the intake manifold and tighten the nuts in a criss-cross pattern in 2 or 3 steps, beginning with the inner nuts.
2. Install the exhaust manifold and tighten the nuts in a criss-cross pattern in 2 or 3 steps, beginning with the inner nut.
3. Install the exhaust manifold bracket.
4. Install two dowel pins, head gasket, and cylinder head
-Apply clean engine oil on the bolt threads and washer contact surface
-Always use a new cylinder head gasket
-Turn the cam pulley to TDC before installing
5. Install the bolts that secure the intake manifold to its bracket but do not tighten them yet (optional, I decided not to do this because the intake manifold bracket is a bitch to get to)
6. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in two steps, working your way from the inside bolts to the outside bolts.
-Step 1: 22 lb ft
-Step 2: 53 lb ft
7. Install the exhaust pipe A on the exhaust manifold.
8. Tighten the bolts for intake manifold bracket (again, optional)
9. Install the exhaust pipe A on its bracket
10. After the installation, check that all the tubes, hoses, and connectors are installed correctly.
11. Adjust the valve timing.
12. Apply liquid gasket to the head mating surface of the number 1 and number 5 or number 6 cam holder then install the cylinder head cover (you can neglect this because you need to leave it off for the timing belt install)
13. Install air intake.
14. Fill radiator with coolant.

My cylinder head, back on:

Alright, we’re getting there. Now all we have left to do is the timing belt, and the VTEC wiring.

COMPLETE timing belt and water pump replacement thread by Poison, GREAT info:
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=649277

Lets do the timing belt first (Taken from helms. I recommend you have the actual manual in front of you because it includes detailed pictures and diagrams):
1. Remove the splash shield
2. Remove the power steering pump (should already be done)
3. Remove the A/C compressor adjust pulley with bracket and the belt (with A/C), then remove the alternator belt.
4. Remove the P/S bracket (should already be done)
5. Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt and pivot nut, then remove the belt.
6. Remove the cruise control actuator and the P/S tank bracket.
7. Remove the engine support nuts. Loosen the mount bolt and pivot the engine side mount rubber out of the way.
8. Remove the cylinder head cover (should already be done).
9. Remove the timing belt upper cover (should already be done).
10. Remove the special bolt and crankshaft pulley (you NEED an air gun for this).
11. Remove the timing belt lower cover.
12. Loosen the timing belt adjusting bolt 180 degrees to release the belt tension (should already be done).
13. Push the tensioner to release tension from the belt, then retighten the adjusting bolt.
14. Remove the timing belt from the pulleys.

I recommend that since you are replacing your timing belt, you go ahead and replace the water pump as well. It is not that expensive, and is only a few bolts. If the water pump fails, you can kiss your motor goodbye so it’s a good thing to get.

Okay, now that you’ve taken the old timing belt off (and hopefully put a new water pump in), lets put the new timing belt in (Taken from helms. I recommend you have the actual manual in front of you because it includes detailed pictures and diagrams):
1. Install the timing belt in the reverse order of removal; only key points described here.
2. Position the crankshaft and cam pulleys at TDC.
A. Set the crankshaft so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC (top dead center).
NOTE: Align the groove on the teeth side of the timing belt drive pulley to the lower arrow pointer on the oil pump.
B. Align the TDC marks on the cam pulley with the pointer on the back cover.
3. Install the timing belt.
4. Loosen the adjusting bolt, and retighten it after tensioning the belt.
5. Rotate the crankshaft (w/ 17mm socket) about 4 or 6 turns clockwise so that the belt may fit in the position on the pulleys.
6. Adjust the timing belt tension.
7. Check the crankshaft pulley and the cam pulley at TDC.
8. If the cam pulley is not positioned at TDC, remove the timing belt and adjust the positioning.

Make sure you adjust the tension the alternator and A/C belts, as well as the power steering belt. Look over everything and make sure it all looks good, because you’re almost done.

6. I’m done swapping the heads, now how do I make my VTEC work?
The P28 ECU plugs right in, you all you’ll need to do is wire the VTEC up. First, you’ll need to get an engine plug from a junkyard for the VTEC solenoid oil pressure.

You can see mine here, it’s big and yellow:

Here is what the back of your ECU plugs look like:

You’ll need to run the blue wire (or whichever color is from the plug) to pin D6, and then run the black ground wire from the plug to anywhere on the motor. You then need to run the green wire from the VTEC solenoid to pin A4.

THAT’S IT! YOU’RE FINISHED! Make sure you’re not throwing any CEL’s, if you are, go back and check your work.

My mini-me, fully complete:

7. How much faster will my car be once it is done?
Well, my car definitely felt much better overall. The lower end will be a bit torquier, and your car will pull much better in the higher RPM’s (5000+). I feel the most difference on the highway, having the extra HP is very nice when you need to merge. The one downfall to a mini-me is the long transmission. The DX transmission is much longer than the EX, and the VX/CX is even worse. I did some calculations, at 7200 RPM here are your shift points with respective transmissions (using 195/50/15 tires, stock tire size):

CX/VX Transmission:
46 - 85 - 140 - 175

DX/LX Transmission:
37 - 68 - 102 - 132

EX/Si Transmission:
35 - 60 - 91 - 126

The gear ratios were taken from Mista Bone's tranny page. Emerika stated that the EX transmission shaved 7 tenths of a second off of his quarter mile time in his hatchback, you DEFINITELY want to get the EX transmission

I was finally able to run my mini-me in the quarter mile. As you can see, with the VTEC working and with the 20” tires (as well as some better driving) I was able to pull off a 15.9@86, a full second faster than with the B7 with I/E. I know my motor has even more potential than this because that run was with the long ass DX tranny

Timeslip:

Setup:
1993 Honda Civic LX Sedan (Weighed in at 2320 lbs without driver)
D15B7 Block and Tranny
D16Z6 Head / Intake Manifold / Exhaust Manifold
Full Interior with Spare Tire, Tools
Short Ram Intake w/ removed headlight
Welded-on straight through eBay muffler
Stock Cat/Exhaust Piping
Original Clutch w/ 160,000 miles
No PS belt
175/50/13 All-Season tires on 13" VX Wheels @ 23psi

8. The mini-me is nice, but I want to make it even faster. What mods should I consider?
The number one modification you should do is the EX transmission. You can pick one up in the Honda-Tech classifieds or in a junkyard for about $200 bucks. They are worth their weight in gold. The usual intake/header/exhaust combination works very well. Exospeed, ZEX, and Skunk2 make very good SOHC VTEC camshafts that will add a good bit of power as well. If you want to take it even farther, you can use D16A1 Integra pistons (P29) that will put your compression way into the 12’s.

For more info on SOHC upgrades, click here - http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=335078

I :heart: my Honda

Shoutouts to:
Sander and Steve of Mixed Motorsports for all of their help

MistaBone for knowing everything and helping me whenever I had a question

Spade for all of his knowledge

Poison for his awesome timing belt / water pump writeup

Comments/additions are welcome

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ImportHatch · 10-01-2003, 01:56 PM

nice writeup.

Yager-

JAMinCiViC · 10-01-2003, 02:32 PM

great write up.

Mini-Me enthusiast,

highhopes · 10-01-2003, 02:43 PM

I'm humbled...

91civicEX · 10-01-2003, 03:14 PM

about time this thing is posted in the EF forum. i thought it was dead.

SIINSI · 10-01-2003, 03:19 PM

Awesome write up man!

Miguel

jk215 · 10-01-2003, 04:42 PM

Amazing write-up. I will have this printed out and binded when I do my mini-me swap. (whenever i get a honda)

Loaded Butane · 10-01-2003, 05:03 PM

Nice write up. I'm sure this will help many people.

BAZ · 10-01-2003, 05:15 PM

Great write-up

This should definately be stickied to the top of the forum or in a FAQ section.

8psiover · 10-01-2003, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BAZ

Great write-up

This should definately be stickied to the top of the forum

D-series are great in my opinion for their price and availablity.

If they have a pics of your cars in a technical forum at the top, they should have this at the top.

B2FiNiTY · 10-01-2003, 05:41 PM

Wow! Mad props!

goodbyegti · 10-03-2003, 08:00 AM

best write up i've ever seen on here, great info!

Limited S.L.I.P. · 10-06-2003, 06:47 AM

Very nice write up.. I printed it on Friday and installed my vtec head on Saturday

japspecjohn · 10-09-2003, 04:00 AM

Arnt all 92-95 SOHC distributors the same?
What happends when u dont pull the oil jet...We Didnt do it on my friends mini me and vtec works fine.

BauleyCivic · 10-13-2003, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by japspecjohn

Arnt all 92-95 SOHC distributors the same?

No they are not

Quote:

Originally Posted by japspecjohn

What happends when u dont pull the oil jet...We Didnt do it on my friends mini me and vtec works fine.

Did you read the thread?

|
V

Quote:

Originally Posted by BauleyCivic

If you have a D15 block (or any D-series block with an oil jet for that matter), you need to make sure that you remove the oil jet between cylinders 2 and 3 when you do this swap. If you don’t, you won’t have VTEC. I forgot to pull the oil jet out the first time. You won’t get a code, your ECU will say your solenoid is fine and everything is working great but VTEC will not actually engage. Make sure you remove the oil jet. I took a screw, screwed it into the oil jet, and then pulled it out with a pair of pliers.

88civicHB703 · 10-13-2003, 09:00 PM

good write wish i had found this when i had my 88 hatch

spiffytee · 10-13-2003, 10:19 PM

wow... this looks like something i'm interested in for a quick fix. just a few questions mini-me guru....where's a good place to get these parts?

and... one of the links that you have above says The Y8 head is the easiest and the Z6 requires some fiddling with the distributor. At this point you’ve got a stock si engine but the compression is higher, between 10.4- 11.1 vs the stock 9.1. That means you’re probably going to have to run premium unleaded or face detonation problems. There are ways to get the compression ratio down. Switch to a thicker head gasket and try aftermarket turbo pistons (expensive) or use D16Z6 pistons, that will lower it .6-1.0.
did you encounter this problem?

finally.. (everyone don't flame me) what is a torque wrench/air wrench? how long did it take you to finish? Thanks in advance!

Quik89Si · 10-13-2003, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spiffytee

finally.. (everyone don't flame me) what is a torque wrench/air wrench? how long did it take you to finish? Thanks in advance!

Torque wrench - just like a regular hand operated ratchet, but it doesn't ratchet. It has a mechanism on it that tells you how much force you are cranking down the bolt with. Certain bolts are only supposed to get torqued down a certain amount - example: lug nuts are supposed to go to 80 lb-ft, so you set the torque wrench at 80 lb-ft, and when you apply that much force, it will click and let you know you're there so you can stop cranking.

Air Wrench/Air Ratchet/Impact Gun/Impact/Whatever you wanna call it - it's like an electric drill but it runs off of bursts of air from an air compressor. They call it an "impact" because it gives quick bursts of very high-torque twisting force to break bolts loose quickly, like the crankshaft pulley bolt that is a bitch to get off otherwise. You gotta have a good air compressor for this.

Oh, and AWESOME WRITE UP on the mini-me how-to! This is why I come to this site!!!

Alex

BauleyCivic · 10-14-2003, 06:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spiffytee

wow... this looks like something i'm interested in for a quick fix. just a few questions mini-me guru....where's a good place to get these parts?

and... one of the links that you have above says The Y8 head is the easiest and the Z6 requires some fiddling with the distributor. At this point you’ve got a stock si engine but the compression is higher, between 10.4- 11.1 vs the stock 9.1. That means you’re probably going to have to run premium unleaded or face detonation problems. There are ways to get the compression ratio down. Switch to a thicker head gasket and try aftermarket turbo pistons (expensive) or use D16Z6 pistons, that will lower it .6-1.0.
did you encounter this problem?

finally.. (everyone don't flame me) what is a torque wrench/air wrench? how long did it take you to finish? Thanks in advance!

You get all the parts from classified ads and the honda dealer.

Basically what that site is saying is that the D16A6 and D16Y8 distributor's line up (you can bolt the A6 distributor to the y8 head), and that you'll have to fiddle with the distributor (drill new holes) if you want to put the D16A6 distributor on a D16Z6 head.

Use this site to calculate compression ratio: http://www.knology.net/~jediklc/D.htm

With a Z6 head, compression is 9.9:1 and with a Y8 head compression is 10.3:1. Anything around 11:1 or lower is perfectly streetable, although I'd run 93 octane anyway (my CR is 10.1:1).

89dohcEF · 10-14-2003, 10:36 AM

thx

crxforum · 10-14-2003, 11:13 AM

Thanks that should be really helpfull to alot of people here.

CRX Forum

Renegade · 10-27-2003, 11:44 AM

really nice write up.

I was thinking of doing this for a CRX, it is basically the same except it will need the Distributor OBD0 or OBd1 conversion instrctions. It may not apply here thought, but it will be good to have it all in one place.

EvilPinkEye · 02-01-2004, 04:51 PM

man this write-up uis kick-ass.
I find myself coming back to this write for anything that I may need, when I did my Minime.
A few notes that I found different from yours, and pretty sure u ya ran into it somewhere else on here.
The head-bolts if u decide to reuse em on the z6 head, the two top-corner bolts may be a tad too long or difficult to screw in finger tight on a B7/z6 combo,
xooox
ooooo
with that said, wat bolts do i need for these two, dont like using washers

Second, my B7 dizzy fit like nothing on my z6, didnt have to mod anything..any info on that??
again nice write-up

onePOINTsix · 02-01-2004, 07:14 PM

awsome writup

rainmanef · 02-01-2004, 07:51 PM

this explains why my vtec dont hit cause i didnt take the dam thing out.

question i already torqued the head down and started the car and all that so i have to get another head gasket dont i?

10-01-2003, 01:56 PM	#2
ImportHatch Member My Garage Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: WA Posts: 2,897	nice writeup. Yager- __________________ --Vinyl Graphics-- -Die cuts - Banners - Magnetics - Vehicle lettering - Business lettering - Silk Screening http://www.yagerdsigns.com Mention HT and get 10% off

10-01-2003, 02:32 PM	#3
JAMinCiViC Member My Garage Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: San Diego now at MCAS Iwakuni, JAPAN Posts: 3,502	Re: (ImportHatch) great write up. Mini-Me enthusiast, __________________ [Air Force][KANTOT SQUAD][EM1 Crew][3D][H-T SneakerHead] PM ME FOR PARTS/KICKS FROM JAPAN!! >>My For Sale Thread! JDM Inside<< KANTOT SQUAD MYSPACE!!

10-01-2003, 02:43 PM	#4
highhopes Junior Member My Garage Join Date: May 2003 Location: Kuala Terengganu, Terengganu, Malaysia Posts: 143	I'm humbled... __________________ Wagovans can be quick...when dropped off a cliff. Post count does not equal IQ.

10-01-2003, 03:14 PM	#5
91civicEX Member My Garage Join Date: May 2003 Location: San Jose, Ca, USA Posts: 2,362	about time this thing is posted in the EF forum. i thought it was dead. __________________ 1991 Civic EX- DAILY DRIVER A/C P/S P/W P/L 1991 CRX DX- bought 10-16-05 pics comin soon "D series- beating you with your old parts" http://images.honda-tech.com/set1/smile/emthup.gif Formerely known as "91civicLX"

10-01-2003, 03:19 PM	#6
SIINSI New User My Garage Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Palm Coast, FL, USA Posts: 2,025	Re: D15 OBD1 SOHC VTEC Mini-Me : Massive Write-up (BauleyCivic) Awesome write up man! Miguel __________________ *<FONT SIZE="1"><FONT COLOR="red">JDMUniverse.com</FONT>*</FONT>

10-01-2003, 04:42 PM	#7
jk215 My Garage Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 3	Re: D15 OBD1 SOHC VTEC Mini-Me : Massive Write-up (SIINSI) Amazing write-up. I will have this printed out and binded when I do my mini-me swap. (whenever i get a honda)

10-01-2003, 05:03 PM	#8
Loaded Butane Blah My Garage Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Abilene, TX Posts: 1,333	Re: D15 OBD1 SOHC VTEC Mini-Me : Massive Write-up Nice write up. I'm sure this will help many people. __________________ Geoff 88 CRX HF

10-01-2003, 05:41 PM	#11
B2FiNiTY Senior Member My Garage Join Date: Mar 2001 Posts: 38,093	Re: D15 OBD1 SOHC VTEC Mini-Me : Massive Write-up (BauleyCivic) Wow! Mad props!

10-03-2003, 08:00 AM	#12
goodbyegti My Garage Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 328	best write up i've ever seen on here, great info! __________________ My old Car: JDM VTi http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=803412 Build your own LCD projector! http://www.diycinema.co.uk http://images.honda-tech.com/set1/smile/emthup.gif

10-06-2003, 06:47 AM	#13
Limited S.L.I.P. My Garage Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Out of the scene in, NY, USA Posts: 829	Re: (goodbyegti) Very nice write up.. I printed it on Friday and installed my vtec head on Saturday __________________ 89 4door dx- JY @185k;91 4door dx- SOLD @170k; 96 4door gsr- totaled and parted @ 127k;90 4door ex sohcvtec- SOLD @135k;89 dxhatch- T-boned on drivers side @130k;97 4door accord se- 196k given away; 04 gsxr 600- SOLD @3k; 04 wrx wagon- SOLD @42k;81VW rabbit pickup Diesel!

10-09-2003, 04:00 AM	#14
japspecjohn Member My Garage Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: dutchess county ny Posts: 6,329	Re: (Limited S.L.I.P.) Arnt all 92-95 SOHC distributors the same? What happends when u dont pull the oil jet...We Didnt do it on my friends mini me and vtec works fine.

10-13-2003, 09:00 PM	#16
88civicHB703 My Garage Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: NOVA Posts: 832	good write wish i had found this when i had my 88 hatch

10-13-2003, 10:19 PM	#17
spiffytee My Garage Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Miami, FL, USA Posts: 36	Re: D15 OBD1 SOHC VTEC Mini-Me : Massive Write-up (BauleyCivic) wow... this looks like something i'm interested in for a quick fix. just a few questions mini-me guru....where's a good place to get these parts? and... one of the links that you have above says The Y8 head is the easiest and the Z6 requires some fiddling with the distributor. At this point you’ve got a stock si engine but the compression is higher, between 10.4- 11.1 vs the stock 9.1. That means you’re probably going to have to run premium unleaded or face detonation problems. There are ways to get the compression ratio down. Switch to a thicker head gasket and try aftermarket turbo pistons (expensive) or use D16Z6 pistons, that will lower it .6-1.0. did you encounter this problem? finally.. (everyone don't flame me) what is a torque wrench/air wrench? how long did it take you to finish? Thanks in advance!

10-14-2003, 10:36 AM	#20
89dohcEF My Garage Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: on the pot and counting to, 100, 97477 Posts: 445	Re: D15 OBD1 SOHC VTEC Mini-Me : Massive Write-up (BauleyCivic) thx __________________ [WTB: Eg 4 door not red, or ek coupe or hatch silver http://images.honda-tech.com/set1/smile/emthup.gif <u>Vouches</u>- Bigjussin kristo92 slomo_civic alwaystootall kamikazesol turboser1 egturbo pikachu chads crashtest sonny

10-14-2003, 11:13 AM	#21
crxforum Member My Garage Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada Posts: 7,788	Re: D15 OBD1 SOHC VTEC Mini-Me : Massive Write-up (zc_civic91) Thanks that should be really helpfull to alot of people here. CRX Forum __________________ My Music Myspace \| My Personal Myspace My 90 Mugen CR-X SiR WTB NES GAMES - PM ME

10-27-2003, 11:44 AM	#22
Renegade Member My Garage Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Cali Posts: 1,853	Re: D15 OBD1 SOHC VTEC Mini-Me : Massive Write-up (crxforum) really nice write up. I was thinking of doing this for a CRX, it is basically the same except it will need the Distributor OBD0 or OBd1 conversion instrctions. It may not apply here thought, but it will be good to have it all in one place. __________________ <FONT COLOR="red">DC2 - EG UCA Rod Ends, NO MORE RUBBER!!!</FONT> [b]<FONT COLOR="red">http://WWW.SUPERTECHPERFORMANCE.COM</FONT> - Performance Parts.

02-01-2004, 04:51 PM	#23
EvilPinkEye Junior Member My Garage Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: 07093, NJ Posts: 988	Re: D15 OBD1 SOHC VTEC Mini-Me : Massive Write-up (Renegade) man this write-up uis kick-ass. I find myself coming back to this write for anything that I may need, when I did my Minime. A few notes that I found different from yours, and pretty sure u ya ran into it somewhere else on here. The head-bolts if u decide to reuse em on the z6 head, the two top-corner bolts may be a tad too long or difficult to screw in finger tight on a B7/z6 combo, xooox ooooo with that said, wat bolts do i need for these two, dont like using washers Second, my B7 dizzy fit like nothing on my z6, didnt have to mod anything..any info on that?? again nice write-up __________________ (__/) (o<U>.</U>O ) (> < ) This is Bunny. Copy Bunny into your signature to help him on his way to world domination...bunny for presidente http://images.honda-tech.com/set1/smile/emthup.gif

02-01-2004, 07:14 PM	#24
onePOINTsix Member My Garage Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Somewhere in the lower part of, MI, U.S.A Posts: 2,263	Re: D15 OBD1 SOHC VTEC Mini-Me : Massive Write-up (EvilPinkEye) awsome writup __________________ 1986 Mazda RX7 Luxuary Pkg... 1990 Honda CRX HF...Sold 5/06 1995 Honda Civic EX sedan... B18C5+Turbo=Fun 1996 Subaru Legacy Wagon L 2002 Volkswagen GTI 1.8T "I don't drift... I strafe." -JDM97CX

02-01-2004, 07:51 PM	#25
rainmanef Junior Member My Garage Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Sunrise/ Now in Orlando, Fl, Usa Posts: 244	Re: (BauleyCivic) this explains why my vtec dont hit cause i didnt take the dam thing out. question i already torqued the head down and started the car and all that so i have to get another head gasket dont i?

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