so, slow starts, anyone else?

[rockybalboa11]

hello friends my '08 civic lx has had these slow cranking cold starts, like the battery is dying, since i first bought it. every once in a while, maybe every week or so, it'll chug chug chug and vroom. i took it in and they checked for pcm updates, checked the battery, and did their own cranks and nothing turned up. a friend of mine has an '06 EX and has the same problem. any of you guys? i know you're mostly si owners, but hey, maybe? :-D thanks pals

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[Nighthawk R18]

it happens to me when i start my LX in the morning and its freezing cold.

i didnt think much of it.

[rockybalboa11]

i've heard the amps are very low at crank on our civics

true statement?

i'm not so much concerned that this will leave me stranded, but just that it's not normal.

[nhip101]

I had the same problem with my brand new 08 civic LX coupe. In the morning, the engine would seem to cut out every once in a while when started cold.

I took it back to Honda and they couldn't reproduce the problems. I pushed them to look at the car and they kept it overnight and reproduced the problem in the morning.

It appears their's a leak in the fuel pressure. So when the car sits for a long time or when the weather is cold, fuel pressure leaks casuing a ruffled start as no gas is able to be drawn.

It seems the Honda quality is not what it once use to be.

[Nighthawk R18]

Originally Posted by nhip101

I had the same problem with my brand new 08 civic LX coupe. In the morning, the engine would seem to cut out every once in a while when started cold.

I took it back to Honda and they couldn't reproduce the problems. I pushed them to look at the car and they kept it overnight and reproduced the problem in the morning.

It appears their's a leak in the fuel pressure. So when the car sits for a long time or when the weather is cold, fuel pressure leaks casuing a ruffled start as no gas is able to be drawn.

It seems the Honda quality is not what it once use to be.

welcome and thanks for signing up to provide a good response

though you post makes me very sad anything we could do to help this?

[rockybalboa11]

did they R&R anything? or just tell you thats what the cause is, and deal with it?

[2008fijibluesi]

The fuel pressure thing is probably just a one person problem. I am pretty sure all of you don't have a fuel pressure problem. I have owned 4 Hondas, my mom has had 2 and my sister has 1, and every single one of them seems a little less urgent to start in the cold. Its a problem that I've experienced (from almost nothing to pretty extreme), on every Honda, since my first '91 Accord. I don't know what it is with Hondas, in particular, but no car really likes starting in cold weather. One thing I do recommend, is that you start your car, and not move it until it is warmed up (temp gauge is in the middle). A cold start + driving without the car warmed up= bad things for your engine. It might not directly address this problem, but it definitely can't hurt.

[rockybalboa11]

as long as you don't go and push it to redline prior to it reaching running temp i don't quite see the problem in driving it after its just been started

p.s. what does that have to do with a leaky fpr

edit: also, it isn't exactly cold here in south florida.

it just doesn't want to start on some occasions after sitting for extended hours.

which by my standards is unacceptable for a new car. i'm just wondering if this problem can be corrected.

[elohel]

Yes I suppose this is "normal". My car has great difficulty at starting when it's -5 or colder oustide

[Bulli Kid]

Dudez its the battery. REALLy low cold cranking amps.

a car is just like you, do you want to get out of bed in the morning when its cold out.

[2008fijibluesi]

Originally Posted by rockybalboa11

as long as you don't go and push it to redline prior to it reaching running temp i don't quite see the problem in driving it after its just been started

p.s. what does that have to do with a leaky fpr

edit: also, it isn't exactly cold here in south florida.

it just doesn't want to start on some occasions after sitting for extended hours.

which by my standards is unacceptable for a new car. i'm just wondering if this problem can be corrected.

Man, can you read? I said, in my post, "It might not directly address this problem...". Thats a pretty good answer to your "p.s. what does that have to do with a leaky fpr" question. First, there is no such thing as a 'leaky fuel pressure'. There is a leak, and there is fuel pressure. They are too different things. You can have low fuel pressure, because of a leak in the system, but you can't have 'leaky fuel pressure'. If that is what your dealer told you, don't take your car there again, because they are morons. Secondly, I understand it isn't frigid in Florida, but you should still do it anyway. Also, being that it is Florida, it should only take about 2 minutes of sitting there before the car is ready to go. I let my cars warm all of the way up, before I drive them in summer too. The purpose to letting your engine fully warm up before you move it, is to be certain that oil has circulated throughout the entire engine. Also, it kills your gas mileage to drive your car when its cold. Go ahead, be rough on your car. Tell yourself that the bucking and crappy response that come with a cold car, are good for it. See if I care. It was just a suggestion. If you have a real problem with it, take it to the damn dealer. Thats what they are there for. I gave you a real answer. Hell, no car likes to start in cold weather, but I know what it is like on Hondas. Honda isn't going to find a problem with it, because there really isn't one. Maybe consider buying a block heater for your engine?

[RICO_]

Originally Posted by 2008fijibluesi

Man, can you read? I said, in my post, "It might not directly address this problem...". Thats a pretty good answer to your "p.s. what does that have to do with a leaky fpr" question. First, there is no such thing as a 'leaky fuel pressure'. There is a leak, and there is fuel pressure. They are too different things. You can have low fuel pressure, because of a leak in the system, but you can't have 'leaky fuel pressure'. If that is what your dealer told you, don't take your car there again, because they are morons. Secondly, I understand it isn't frigid in Florida, but you should still do it anyway. Also, being that it is Florida, it should only take about 2 minutes of sitting there before the car is ready to go. I let my cars warm all of the way up, before I drive them in summer too. The purpose to letting your engine fully warm up before you move it, is to be certain that oil has circulated throughout the entire engine. Also, it kills your gas mileage to drive your car when its cold. Go ahead, be rough on your car. Tell yourself that the bucking and crappy response that come with a cold car, are good for it. See if I care. It was just a suggestion. If you have a real problem with it, take it to the damn dealer. Thats what they are there for. I gave you a real answer. Hell, no car likes to start in cold weather, but I know what it is like on Hondas. Honda isn't going to find a problem with it, because there really isn't one. Maybe consider buying a block heater for your engine?

Oil only takes a few seconds to circulate throughout the engine. It's not really necessary to let the car warm up all the way before moving it. It's just not recommended to drive it aggresively right away.

[i-spit-hotfire]

Well, back to the OP's problem...was the fuel pressure leak ever fixed? Also, what was causing this "leak?" Hopefully all the productive posts helped you figure it out

[rockybalboa11]

Originally Posted by 2008fijibluesi

Man, can you read? I said, in my post, "It might not directly address this problem...". Thats a pretty good answer to your "p.s. what does that have to do with a leaky fpr" question. First, there is no such thing as a 'leaky fuel pressure'. There is a leak, and there is fuel pressure. They are too different things. You can have low fuel pressure, because of a leak in the system, but you can't have 'leaky fuel pressure'. If that is what your dealer told you, don't take your car there again, because they are morons. Secondly, I understand it isn't frigid in Florida, but you should still do it anyway. Also, being that it is Florida, it should only take about 2 minutes of sitting there before the car is ready to go. I let my cars warm all of the way up, before I drive them in summer too. The purpose to letting your engine fully warm up before you move it, is to be certain that oil has circulated throughout the entire engine. Also, it kills your gas mileage to drive your car when its cold. Go ahead, be rough on your car. Tell yourself that the bucking and crappy response that come with a cold car, are good for it. See if I care. It was just a suggestion. If you have a real problem with it, take it to the damn dealer. Thats what they are there for. I gave you a real answer. Hell, no car likes to start in cold weather, but I know what it is like on Hondas. Honda isn't going to find a problem with it, because there really isn't one. Maybe consider buying a block heater for your engine?

not acting as if i know anything about engines, but a fuel pressure regulator can leak can't it?

p.s. lol 2 minutes of idling to ensure oil has circulated throughout the engine

wtf

[i-spit-hotfire]

Originally Posted by rockybalboa11

not acting as if i know anything about engines, but a fuel pressure regulator can leak can't it?

p.s. lol 2 minutes of idling to ensure oil has circulated throughout the engine

wtf

Yes of course an FPR can leak, but he never said it was the regulator specifically. That's why I asked if he got it fixed and what the cause was? Bad FPR, fuel line, etc?

The thing about oil circulation after two minutes does sound whack. I'm not an oil gyru or anything, but don't oil manufacturing companies put in some kind of agent into the oil so there's always a small film of oil for your internals most of the time, or oil properties just allow the oil to lubricate the internals most of the time??? Well, either way I doubt it takes an oil pump two minutes to fully squirt up some engine juice

[hondamanforlife]

my si starts slow when it's cold but always fires right up! I like the way the previous starters worked alot more! (cherp cherp vroom)

[rockybalboa11]

Originally Posted by i-spit-hotfire

The thing about oil circulation after two minutes does sound whack. I'm not an oil gyru or anything, but don't oil manufacturing companies put in some kind of agent into the oil so there's always a small film of oil for your internals most of the time, or oil properties just allow the oil to lubricate the internals most of the time??? Well, either way I doubt it takes an oil pump two minutes to fully squirt up some engine juice

i believe the dude has trouble understanding the concept of oil pressure & coolant temperature

[accordselux]

Originally Posted by elohel

Yes I suppose this is "normal". My car has great difficulty at starting when it's -5 or colder oustide

This is the kind of crap I worry about.

I'm looking at Mazda3's too and they say they get poor fuel economy on short trips even with the engine warmed up. I don't need to hear the Civic has cold start issues as well

[i-spit-hotfire]

My Si doesn't have any issues with cold start. I'm living in Utah and it gets really cold. No stutters, just cherr vrroommm!!! I guess it may be a little different with non-Si models...I don't know.

[2008fijibluesi]

Like I said. And this to anyone that drives their car without warming it up; Go ahead, be rough on your car. Tell yourself that the bucking and crappy response that come with a cold car, are good for it. Tell yourself that the high-revving automatic transmissions do when they are cold is a good thing. And tell yourself that the bucking that manual cars do when they are cold, is a good thing.

I didn't mean to imply that I thought it took 2 minutes or more for oil to circulate throughout the engine. I know it only takes one complete rotation of the crank. That was just part of it. When the thermostat shows your car is warmed up, it means the coolant (antifreeze) has warmed your engine to proper running temperature. When I said the two minute thing, I meant, in Florida, it should only take 2 minutes to get to operating temperature.

[rockybalboa11]

yeah you're right

our manual sez to wait at least 5 minutes for our coolant to reach operating temps before moving the car

wait no it doesnt

in fact it says do not idle the car


start and go

WHOA

cars can do that ?

[Klutch]

I've had a 2003 Accord, 2007 CRV and 2008 CRV and all 3 always had what I would consider excessive crank time and what seemed to be a weak battery. I had it looked at on the Accord with NFF of course. Once we got the 07 CRV I just assumed it was the way Honda's were, the 08 really confirmed this.

Now that's not to say mine and yours were the same, yours may be worse than mine was but I definitely wondered about it. Hope this helps the OP.

[2008fijibluesi]

Originally Posted by rockybalboa11

yeah you're right

our manual sez to wait at least 5 minutes for our coolant to reach operating temps before moving the car

wait no it doesnt

in fact it says do not idle the car


start and go

WHOA

cars can do that ?

Dude how could you post such a stupid question on here, and then bash me when I give you honest answers? Do not create a thread again. When an OP asks a question in their thread, they are pretty much admitting they have no idea what they are talking about in that particular subject, like you. So do not act like you know anything more than I do in this particular area.

As far as the manual goes, I won't follow that damn thing again. The manual says to change your oil when the oil life indicator gets below 15%. If you changed your own oil, you'd know how black the oil is when you change it then. The only thing I need my manual for is bulb numbers and if I wanna reset the stations on my radio.

[siboii08]

I usually wait about three mins while its warming up. Im really not in a hurry in the mornings. I look at my car maybe throw some water on it to clear up the windows. I live in miami so its kind of humid out here in the morning. Never gives me a problem. I love my SI

After a good ten mins TRIPLE DIGITS BABY!

[Built CRX]

Originally Posted by 2008fijibluesi

Dude how could you post such a stupid question on here, and then bash me when I give you honest answers? Do not create a thread again. When an OP asks a question in their thread, they are pretty much admitting they have no idea what they are talking about in that particular subject, like you. So do not act like you know anything more than I do in this particular area.

As far as the manual goes, I won't follow that damn thing again. The manual says to change your oil when the oil life indicator gets below 15%. If you changed your own oil, you'd know how black the oil is when you change it then. The only thing I need my manual for is bulb numbers and if I wanna reset the stations on my radio.

Dude, it's a forum not a presidental debate, relax