Honda and Acura Technical Forums

*Boostwerks* · 09-10-2007, 03:44 PM

Updated pics on pg 3!

I'm building this manifold for my B16 CRX, which will now have a divided GT3082R. The entire manifold will be polished like this!

Well, it shouldn't have taken 10 hours to build this collector, but I was trying out some different process to get a nice polished finish on the 304 sch pipe. I finally came up with a method that shouldn't take all that long, and gets a really nice finish that's close to a "mirror." I think a little more buffing time would produce a perfect mirror finish. Unfortunetly my first attempt had left some fairly deep gouges in the material which took forever to get out (you can still kinda see them). If I avoid that mistake, the finish should look much better. As for the entire process...I think I'll hold onto it and keep it as a trade secret.

I'm cutting the WG ports, and porting the outlets tommarow. I'll keep this thread updated.

Enjoi,
Bryson

Modified by Boostwerks.com at 8:17 PM 9/24/2007

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ebydrc · 09-10-2007, 03:51 PM

P shop masta says you need to finish the inside too

*Boostwerks* · 09-10-2007, 03:54 PM

lol. I did after all say that I'm doing that tommarow in my post.

ebydrc · 09-10-2007, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boostwerks.com

lol. I did after all say that I'm doing that tommarow in my post.

reading ownz me and the P Shop voice was calling me....

AbitAvenger · 09-10-2007, 04:23 PM

looks really good

.RTErnie · 09-10-2007, 05:02 PM

c'mon bryson..you ever heard of a 5lb hammer? beat those ****ers into submission. You can get your collector and flange to mate better if you really spend some time with an anvil and a hammer.

*Boostwerks* · 09-10-2007, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by .RTErnie

c'mon bryson..you ever heard of a 5lb hammer? beat those ****ers into submission. You can get your collector and flange to mate better if you really spend some time with an anvil and a hammer.

Haha...what the hell is that? j/k. I just used a vise to squish the ends of the collectors. The pic is actually kind of deceiving. They fit the flange almost perfectly. I simply welded in around the seam so it'll come out nice and smooth when I port the inside.

I'll get a before and after pic tommarow.

turboteener · 09-10-2007, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boostwerks.com

I think a little more buffing time would produce a perfect mirror finish. Unfortunetly my first attempt had left some fairly deep gouges in the material which took forever to get out (you can still kinda see them). If I avoid that mistake, the finish should look much better. As for the entire process...I think I'll hold onto it and keep it as a trade secret.

6in wire wheel on a bench grinder gives a remarkably similar finish. What layout are you using on the tubes?

*Boostwerks* · 09-10-2007, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turboteener

6in wire wheel on a bench grinder gives a remarkably similar finish. What layout are you using on the tubes?

Actually, I normally use just a wire wheel to give the pipes a shinny finish. However, it's not enough to remove the casting pot marks. With that casting removed it's pretty easy to get it to a mirror finish. The runner's will look better since I don't have to ruin them in the process of finding out what works best.

mrbsponge · 09-10-2007, 08:09 PM

bryson your welding has come a mega long way, great job

speeddave · 09-10-2007, 08:56 PM

looks good, i really wanted to do a divided t3 topmount for my holset, but trying to fit the two gates, w/a topmount and a holset in the ef chassis wasnt something i was up for at the time. i'm curious as to how your going to make it all fit.

RC000E · 09-10-2007, 11:12 PM

Whew...your gonna have some fun welding at the top of that collector depending how your runners are designed....lol. Have fun with that...I hate that part.

I've been splaying my collectors a little more lately to avoid that and have been HIGHLY relieved. Especially since I still weld mani's with a 17 and an obese gas lense.

Looks good so far man...keep it goin.

ls1_datsun · 09-11-2007, 12:05 AM

http://www.shoprutlandtool.com

They have wheels that will take out the casting marks and pretty much polish the elbow

Not cheap like wire wheels though

Im guessing the collector pulled in on you after it was welded? 2 ways to solve that. Tack quite a few times around the outside (towards edge of flange) and weld only the outside first. Then do another pass around the whole collector. Do not weld in between the two separate collectors untill the manifold is assembled. Another way is to essentially build 2 separate manifolds with the 1&4 and 2&3 runners. Weld each manifold in a separate fixture, once everything is welded and assembled weld each manifold to the divided flange...this way allows for a very compact manifold, easy assembly and you don't have to worry about boxing your self in when you build the manifold

Justin Olson · 09-11-2007, 11:47 AM

Do you really need to weld them completely around the backside? I figured you could just weld them together where they meet the flange. Then weld the divided collector to the flange on the interior.

Justin

Quote:

Originally Posted by RC000E

Whew...your gonna have some fun welding at the top of that collector depending how your runners are designed....lol. Have fun with that...I hate that part.

I've been splaying my collectors a little more lately to avoid that and have been HIGHLY relieved. Especially since I still weld mani's with a 17 and an obese gas lense.

Looks good so far man...keep it goin.

*Boostwerks* · 09-11-2007, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Justin Olson

Do you really need to weld them completely around the backside?

Definetly not. Those pics are of the completed collector. (no more welds besides the WG tubes). The way I welded it will work just fine, and I know that for a fact. The outside weld around the collectors will hold the weight of the turbo just fine. The inner welds are just required to seal it up. The two collectors don't even really need to be welded together, but I chose to weld up about 2"s on the back side simply to give them more strength. The WG tubes (single WG, but Y'd from both collectors) is obviously going to tie in the front part of the two collectors, so it would have been pointless to weld the front.

.RTErnie · 09-12-2007, 08:17 AM

go finish that shit and stop posting :-P lol looks good bryson.

*Boostwerks* · 09-12-2007, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by .RTErnie

go finish that shit and stop posting :-P lol looks good bryson.

lol. I forgot to take it too work with me (I don't really want to make all the noise cutting the collector holes at home

).

I'll get the collector finished up tommarow, and hopefully start the runners this weekend.

*Boostwerks* · 09-13-2007, 07:04 PM

BUMP for updates!

The WG els are definetly going to be tricky. A divided T4 would be much easier to do for sure. I don't think I'll have any problems though.

Porting came out pretty nice too. About 5 minutes with a die grinder does wonders.

LShatchie · 09-13-2007, 07:18 PM

looks great

.RTErnie · 09-13-2007, 07:39 PM

http://www.mondello.com
^^^ get some good porting tools.

DESTROYER · 09-13-2007, 08:39 PM

good link. thanks!

Vince64 · 09-13-2007, 09:02 PM

are you gonna divide the wg tubes all the way to the flange?

Tony the Tiger · 09-14-2007, 01:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boostwerks.com

I'm building this manifold for my B16 CRX, which will now have a divided GT3082R.

Keep me updated on how the divided setup turns out...

*Boostwerks* · 09-14-2007, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vince64

are you gonna divide the wg tubes all the way to the flange?

Not really. I will have somewhat of a collector that will pair both sides of the collector. It'll look kinda like the full-race SR20 divided setup.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony the Tiger

Keep me updated on how the divided setup turns out...

For sure man. I'm going to go with the ATP .78ar divided housing, unless I can find someone else who makes a larger housing.

Justin Olson · 09-14-2007, 08:54 AM

09-10-2007, 03:54 PM	#3
Boostwerks Member My Garage Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: I heart tool, US Posts: 9,584	lol. I did after all say that I'm doing that tommarow in my post. __________________ Boostwerks Time Attack CRX coming soon! www.Boostwerks.com Thanks to: Special Projects Motorsports, Servion Tuning, Cortek Inc, (Your name here!)

09-10-2007, 04:23 PM	#5
AbitAvenger Member My Garage Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: georgia, bitch Posts: 2,759	looks really good __________________ 1993 Civic Si-T : Sold 1993 Civic DX : big block sohc 2.3L-T 2000 Civic Si : 84.5mm x 89mm darton gsr 9:1 cp eagle supertech garret hondata

09-10-2007, 05:02 PM	#6
.RTErnie Member My Garage Join Date: May 2002 Location: BeLlInGhAm, Wa Posts: 3,565	Re: (AbitAvenger) c'mon bryson..you ever heard of a 5lb hammer? beat those **ers into submission. You can get your collector and flange to mate better if you really spend some time with an anvil and a hammer. __________________ Eric Urness R/TErnie Race Engineering 541.980.6022 SRT-4 and Neon Turbo Manifolds, Tuning, and Fabrication!**

09-10-2007, 08:09 PM	#10
mrbsponge Member My Garage Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: TAMPAMIKE.ORG, AL, USA Posts: 3,628	bryson your welding has come a mega long way, great job __________________ 10.02@149.5 84mm gsR Bullseye powered Top Dead Center Performance(www.tampamike.org) Mobile Alabama, 251-661-6067

09-10-2007, 08:56 PM	#11
speeddave Member My Garage Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: edmo, AB, Canada Posts: 1,466	Re: (mrbsponge) looks good, i really wanted to do a divided t3 topmount for my holset, but trying to fit the two gates, w/a topmount and a holset in the ef chassis wasnt something i was up for at the time. i'm curious as to how your going to make it all fit. __________________ Holset powered 91 civic dx ls/vtec 11.5 @ 124mph (12psi)

09-10-2007, 03:51 PM	#2
ebydrc Banned My Garage Join Date: May 2006 Location: in the shop, usa Posts: 885	P shop masta says you need to finish the inside too

09-10-2007, 11:12 PM	#12
RC000E Member My Garage Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: West Mifflin, pa, USA Posts: 4,353	Re: (speeddave) Whew...your gonna have some fun welding at the top of that collector depending how your runners are designed....lol. Have fun with that...I hate that part. I've been splaying my collectors a little more lately to avoid that and have been HIGHLY relieved. Especially since I still weld mani's with a 17 and an obese gas lense. Looks good so far man...keep it goin. __________________ 2nd Annual Pittsburgh 2009 Mega MEET and CRUISE!!! Autocross, Track Hot-Laps, Kart Racing, DJ, Good food!!! Check Mid-Atlantic meets forum for details!

09-11-2007, 12:05 AM	#13
ls1_datsun Junior Member My Garage Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: phoenix, az Posts: 138	Re: (RC000E) http://www.shoprutlandtool.com They have wheels that will take out the casting marks and pretty much polish the elbow Not cheap like wire wheels though Im guessing the collector pulled in on you after it was welded? 2 ways to solve that. Tack quite a few times around the outside (towards edge of flange) and weld only the outside first. Then do another pass around the whole collector. Do not weld in between the two separate collectors untill the manifold is assembled. Another way is to essentially build 2 separate manifolds with the 1&4 and 2&3 runners. Weld each manifold in a separate fixture, once everything is welded and assembled weld each manifold to the divided flange...this way allows for a very compact manifold, easy assembly and you don't have to worry about boxing your self in when you build the manifold

09-12-2007, 08:17 AM	#16
.RTErnie Member My Garage Join Date: May 2002 Location: BeLlInGhAm, Wa Posts: 3,565	Re: (Boostwerks.com) go finish that shit and stop posting :-P lol looks good bryson. __________________ Eric Urness R/TErnie Race Engineering 541.980.6022 SRT-4 and Neon Turbo Manifolds, Tuning, and Fabrication!

09-13-2007, 07:04 PM	#18
Boostwerks Member My Garage Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: I heart tool, US Posts: 9,584	Re: My personal divided T3 manifold "build thread"... (Boostwerks.com) BUMP for updates! The WG els are definetly going to be tricky. A divided T4 would be much easier to do for sure. I don't think I'll have any problems though. Porting came out pretty nice too. About 5 minutes with a die grinder does wonders. __________________ Boostwerks Time Attack CRX coming soon! www.Boostwerks.com Thanks to: Special Projects Motorsports, Servion Tuning, Cortek Inc, (Your name here!)

09-13-2007, 07:18 PM	#19
LShatchie Member My Garage Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: boostin 18psi, MD Posts: 1,669	Re: My personal divided T3 manifold "build thread"... (Boostwerks.com) looks great __________________ 93 hatch CURRENTLY: Built LSvtec 473whp at 18.5psi stock sleeves ! J-K-Tuning!!!!

09-13-2007, 07:39 PM	#20
.RTErnie Member My Garage Join Date: May 2002 Location: BeLlInGhAm, Wa Posts: 3,565	Re: My personal divided T3 manifold "build thread"... (LShatchie) http://www.mondello.com ^^^ get some good porting tools. __________________ Eric Urness R/TErnie Race Engineering 541.980.6022 SRT-4 and Neon Turbo Manifolds, Tuning, and Fabrication!

09-13-2007, 08:39 PM	#21
DESTROYER Junior Member My Garage Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: MESA, AZ, USA Posts: 494	good link. thanks! __________________ Clever Comprehension - My blog

09-13-2007, 09:02 PM	#22
Vince64 My Garage Join Date: May 2007 Location: the backshop, az, usa Posts: 94	are you gonna divide the wg tubes all the way to the flange? __________________ http://www.full-race.com http://www.ecomodder.com 70 mpg or die

09-14-2007, 08:54 AM	#25
Justin Olson Member My Garage Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Portland, Oregon, USA Posts: 1,511	Re: (Boostwerks.com) __________________ 77 Datsun 280z w/ 2JZ swap in progress S480 Turbo

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