Can i turbo my ZC?
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Can i turbo my ZC?
i have read all kinds of things about turboing a ZC i know greddy used to make a kit for the ZC the released in japan but i would really like to find one if anyone has herd anything about this please let me know thanks alot!
#2
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Re: Can i turbo my ZC? (-=TWITCH=-)
Yea, you can modify a greddy 92-95 civic turbo kit to work on the zc. A guy I know did that to his zc and he really likes it. Or you could build a custom turbo kit which would not be difficult either.
#3
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Re: Can i turbo my ZC? (91civic)
Yea, you can modify a greddy 92-95 civic turbo kit to work on the zc. A guy I know did that to his zc and he really likes it. Or you could build a custom turbo kit which would not be difficult either.
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Re: Can i turbo my ZC? (-=TWITCH=-)
Here is a link to a website that talks about the Greddy turbo kit originally for the ZC,then since we have the D16z6 they modified it to sell as a kit for the U.S. market. I hope this helps! http://www.motionless.net
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Re: Can i turbo my ZC? (hondacivic4g)
Just make sure that on stock internals you watch the boost closely, no more than 7lbs. The stock rods are good to about +-200hp, and I have seen and heard of several of ZC's that pound out the bearings on too much boost/NOS.
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Can i turbo my ZC? (91civic)
Either your alking about me or Joel I like my setup only 5.5 pounds, so far trouble free and gives the ZC the pull it needs
#7
Re: Can i turbo my ZC? (CWBETB)
I just got mine done. Be aware that the Greddy Kit no longer comes with an FMU. You'll have to go buy the FMU and sell the FCU that comes with the kit. Well, I guess you don't have to sell the FCU, you could use it for a paper weight.
Anyway, routing the oil line will be a little bit different also. The oil cooler gets in the way. What I did was use a 1/8 BPT adapter to a 1/8" short Nipple *snicker* to a 1/8 nylon tube thing (what are those called). That got me out past the oil cooler without putting a bunch of weight on the threads in the block. I then ran the 1/8" nylon tube to a T that the oil pressure sending unit and feed line run off of.
I can explain it better in email if you need me to. I personally thing this is better than the Greddy way, and it was cheap and easy. I didn't have to buy $70 worth of oil fittings and hoses.
My battery is in the rear, so routing the charge pipes was simple. I'm not using the intercooler yet, so I just used the pipes that came with the kit. I cut about 2 inches off of one, and used the one off of the turbo and the one that goes up in the fender in the opposite positions. Again, I can explain this better.
Over all, I'd say it was worth it. I had to replace my fuel pump, but you might not need to. Mine was leaning out bad at only 5 lbs. I changed the pump and its money. The car actually isn't that much faster at only 5 lbs. I'd guess maybe 20hp total increase. You'll like it.
Anyway, routing the oil line will be a little bit different also. The oil cooler gets in the way. What I did was use a 1/8 BPT adapter to a 1/8" short Nipple *snicker* to a 1/8 nylon tube thing (what are those called). That got me out past the oil cooler without putting a bunch of weight on the threads in the block. I then ran the 1/8" nylon tube to a T that the oil pressure sending unit and feed line run off of.
I can explain it better in email if you need me to. I personally thing this is better than the Greddy way, and it was cheap and easy. I didn't have to buy $70 worth of oil fittings and hoses.
My battery is in the rear, so routing the charge pipes was simple. I'm not using the intercooler yet, so I just used the pipes that came with the kit. I cut about 2 inches off of one, and used the one off of the turbo and the one that goes up in the fender in the opposite positions. Again, I can explain this better.
Over all, I'd say it was worth it. I had to replace my fuel pump, but you might not need to. Mine was leaning out bad at only 5 lbs. I changed the pump and its money. The car actually isn't that much faster at only 5 lbs. I'd guess maybe 20hp total increase. You'll like it.
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#9
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Re: Can i turbo my ZC? (therealciviczc)
Hmmmm....it is leaning out at only 5 lbs? What disc are you running in your fmu? Maybe it might be time to ditch the fmu for a large injector, fuel pump, and fuel computer setup. Are you running the fmu on the stock pump? Sometimes the stocker can't handle the high pressures that the fmu produces.
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Can i turbo my ZC? (91civic)
Are you using the 12:1 disc? Im pretty sure thats what Im using, Im using the older Vortec FMU that comes with the old kit. By the way if anyone wants my FMC that comes with the greddy kit for 92-95 Civic EX let me know I can part with it cheap.
#11
Re: Can i turbo my ZC? (CWBETB)
#12
Re: Can i turbo my ZC? (HondaCRX)
I am using the 12:1 disc in the FMU. I was surprised it was leaning out. If you have the funds, get either an A/F gauge or a exhaust temp gauge soon. The car felt fine. It actually felt like it had more power when it was leaning out... maybe. Now its a little too rich, but more boost should fix that
I would be fine through 1st gear, in second gear it would start going lean gradually from about 3500rpm and end up in the first red LED by 5000 rpm at 5 lbs. I would back out of the pedal quick then obviously. Third gear would be a little worse, and so on.
The pump had 170,000 miles on it. I think it was just worn out. I know most people are fine at this level of boost with the factory pump. I think it was just my pump.
With the walbro 255, it runs completely in the rich at full throttle the through any rpm. It idles at 38 - 39 psi now instead of the 32 it was idling at with the old pump. The other thing that I noticed is that when the A/F gauge does its back and forth thing at ilde and cruising, it goes to the lean very slowly, but back to rich really quick, then back to lean slow, etc.
Like I said before though. I wouldn't have know if I hadn't had the gauge. I probably would have found out when it finally blew up! The car didn't feel like it was starved for fuel at all.
I would be fine through 1st gear, in second gear it would start going lean gradually from about 3500rpm and end up in the first red LED by 5000 rpm at 5 lbs. I would back out of the pedal quick then obviously. Third gear would be a little worse, and so on.
The pump had 170,000 miles on it. I think it was just worn out. I know most people are fine at this level of boost with the factory pump. I think it was just my pump.
With the walbro 255, it runs completely in the rich at full throttle the through any rpm. It idles at 38 - 39 psi now instead of the 32 it was idling at with the old pump. The other thing that I noticed is that when the A/F gauge does its back and forth thing at ilde and cruising, it goes to the lean very slowly, but back to rich really quick, then back to lean slow, etc.
Like I said before though. I wouldn't have know if I hadn't had the gauge. I probably would have found out when it finally blew up! The car didn't feel like it was starved for fuel at all.
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