http://honda-tech.com Sound Systems, Alarms, Electronics en Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:57:59 GMT vBulletin 60 http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/src:honda-tech.com/get//images/misc/rss.jpg http://honda-tech.com http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683853&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 06:42:25 GMT has any ones car or do you know of a car that was stolen with one? other than towed? my cor got jackd and i was caught without alarm im planing on... has any ones car or do you know of a car that was stolen with one? other than towed? my cor got jackd and i was caught without alarm im planing on installing one and also the quick release lock. is it really worth the price/works?
thanks ]]> Audio / Security / Video wannaBjdmca6 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683853 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683716&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:47:18 GMT I bought a factory keyless entry system followed the wiring diagram with a plug and play harness having trouble getting the box in program mode to... I bought a factory keyless entry system followed the wiring diagram with a plug and play harness having trouble getting the box in program mode to set remotes. ]]> Audio / Security / Video boosted8585 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683716 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683705&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:27:03 GMT hey everyone, i have a LOC hooked up to my accord 09 with 2 12" hooked up. Except lately, when i drive, the speakers will stop working, and then all of a sudden they will work again. This is happening more frequently now, and i can't diagnose the problem. I've heard that it's my battery and that i need a better one. CAN ANYONE HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE ]]> Audio / Security / Video blaz33 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683705 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683388&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:52:56 GMT I want to know if there is a away to eliminate the audio unit and basically have a standalone aux unit (if there is such a thing)? I want to be able... I want to know if there is a away to eliminate the audio unit and basically have a standalone aux unit (if there is such a thing)? I want to be able to play audio from my phone/media device without an audio unit. I've seen something where, instead of the audio unit, there was a device that took its place in-line with the factory audio harness. So basically it was: oem harness > aux unit > aux 3.5mm cable > media player. It was long ago when I saw it but can't find it now. Anything like this out there? TIA ]]> Audio / Security / Video MARVNVRAM http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683388 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683276&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 05:34:03 GMT i have a 91 crx si that i want to get more bass out of. i have to clue about all this sound stuff. im not looking to be crazy loud or make my car... i have a 91 crx si that i want to get more bass out of. i have to clue about all this sound stuff. im not looking to be crazy loud or make my car shake bad, i just want a good bass sound. some friends have told me two 10's would sound good nut i have no clue. i also need to know what amps to run with it so it all sounds good. im not looking at spending much money. the sound is not my main concern, the engine and body is. so if some one could tell me everything i need and where to get it, FOR CHEEP. id like to stick with Best Buy and Wall-mart if i can. thanks for the help. please dont give me a set up that takes my whole trunk space. i need some room in my trunk ]]> Audio / Security / Video michael-crxsi http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683276 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683150&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 02:21:28 GMT Okay, I'll try to be as clear as possible when describing. I have a 94 USDM Integra that I converted to a RHD car. When doing the conversion I removed ALL wiring harnesses that were installed, and replaced them with ALL JDM 96/97 ITR harnesses. To the best of my knowledge that's the year harnesses that I'm working with now.

I've installed an alarm in the car, and for most purposes almost all the wires match up as if it were a USDM harness. (albeit on the opposite side now) However, the power lock wires that you'd typically find in the gray plugs by the drivers kick panel do not exist. (Black/Red, Black/White)

So, I checked inside the door on the door lock motor (green box) and sure enough those wires don't exist there either. I have the following wires on that plug:

• Black
• Yellow/Red
• White/Red
• White/Green
• Blue/White
• Blue/Red

So at this point I'm basically confused if I'll even be able to hook up the power locks. I can't seem to find any information about those wiring diagrams and/or suggestions for it. If anyone has any insight, I'm all ears. TIA. ]]> Audio / Security / Video sneakychaos http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683150 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683062&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:26:51 GMT So i just got home with CD-Player on. working 100% fine. I decide to make another music cd. went to garage, try to eject CD, no response. i press... So i just got home with CD-Player on. working 100% fine.

I decide to make another music cd. went to garage, try to eject CD, no response. i press CD mode, nothing. Other buttons works. just CD mode and CD eject button is not working.

I even disconnect the battery and retired. same thing.

Any one had this kind of problem?

2000 integra/ Factory radio/cd player. ]]> Audio / Security / Video __oversea http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683062 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2682702&goto=newpost Wed, 18 Nov 2009 07:03:55 GMT I'm very new to car security but just recently bought a del Sol and want to lock it up tighter than a drum. :P My other cars are an old Accord which no one even looks at and a Buick Grand National that sits "disabled" in a locked garage.

I've read quite a few threads on here and have decided to attempt a "stealth" install of an alarm system. Backup battery, extra sirens, etc. What I'd really like is to find a system with great and reliable range. Say, for instance, if I go to the movies. If an alarm says it has a 1 mile range how greatly does a building effect that? Can I park my car at the mall and walk around and have faith that the signal won't diminish so that it can't find me?

And what about GPS systems? I've already decided that I'll be getting one, but there are so many. I just need something simple and to the point. If my alarm goes off and the car is moved I want a system to call/text my phone giving me an internet link that I can access right away. From there I'd like the option to shut down the car. If there's a system that's compatible with Windows Mobile that would be amazingly awesome. If not, I can easily use Internet Explorer regardless. The point is that I don't want it to alert me that the car is moving and then go, "Shit! I need to find a computer!".

Oh, and then there's kill switches. There seems to be some debate about using the main relay and even relocating it. Whether or not it's the best method it sure does look like a pain in the ass to do. From what I've gathered the main kills are starter/ignition, fuel pump, and the main relay. Decisions, decisions.... :scared:

One last thing, has anyone here ever played with logic gates? Wikipedia says this about them:

"A logic gate performs a logical operation on one or more logic inputs and produces a single logic output. The logic normally performed is Boolean logic and is most commonly found in digital circuits. Logic gates are primarily implemented electronically using diodes or transistors, but can also be constructed using electromagnetic relays, fluidics, optics, molecules, or even mechanical elements.
In electronic logic, a logic level is represented by a voltage or current, (which depends on the type of electronic logic in use). Each logic gate requires power so that it can source and sink currents to achieve the correct output voltage. In logic circuit diagrams the power is not shown, but in a full electronic schematic, power connections are required."

Now, from what I've been told through a few people is that they can be used for car security. One can make (engineer?) a logic gate so that a certain kill switch can only be activated if a certain set of electrical signals is used. For an example I was told that one can create a gate for the fuel pump so that while the key is turned to the ON position and the brake pedal is held, one pushes various HVAC controls (buttons, fan speeds, etc) in a pre-determined order and the fuel pump will then receive power. Now, if this is actually able to be done, it sounds pretty bad ass and sure beats the usual, "Well, I think I'll hide this kill switch over here," way of doing things. Does anyone have any experience with such setups?

I apologize for the amount of questions, but like I said, this whole car security thing is very new to me but I very much want to get it right the first time. :beer: ]]> Audio / Security / Video LCDeuce http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2682702 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2682670&goto=newpost Wed, 18 Nov 2009 05:48:28 GMT is there a way to turn off the honking of the horn on honda's keyless entry? i read the manual but i dont see it anywhere its a 2010 honda ]]> Audio / Security / Video Dc2 Powered http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2682670 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2682644&goto=newpost Wed, 18 Nov 2009 05:01:09 GMT I was wondering does it really require a "motor" in order for the trunk to pop open for the security system? My alarm is Viper 350 Plus. Also, how much would the remote start be? ]]> Audio / Security / Video runtohell121 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2682644 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2682606&goto=newpost Wed, 18 Nov 2009 04:02:29 GMT i have a 94 prelude. I have recently installed a sub and amp. when the car is on (but not the engine) it all sounds fine. but when the engine is on,... i have a 94 prelude. I have recently installed a sub and amp. when the car is on (but not the engine) it all sounds fine. but when the engine is on, when the volume gets to about halfway there is a very loud high pitched squeeling noise that increases with more volume increase. It does not increase as the engine speed does (at least that I can notice). any advice? i have checked the connections and the power and signal cables are on opposite sides of the car. i do have some of the spare wire kind of grouped up in the trunk, but not very much, maybe 1-2 feet. I cannot figure out what is wrong. should I get a capacitor to hook up to the alternator? should i get some of those "interference reducers" or whatever, that hook up to the wires? ]]> Audio / Security / Video playa192 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2682606 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2682278&goto=newpost Tue, 17 Nov 2009 19:02:57 GMT Recently, i got a stereo setup, jl 500/1 and a 10inch jl w6 subwoofer, lately when i come back to my car, the starter would crank slow as hell but... Recently, i got a stereo setup, jl 500/1 and a 10inch jl w6 subwoofer, lately when i come back to my car, the starter would crank slow as hell but would eventually fireup, is my amp staying on when my car is off or whats going on? would a capacitor or a bettery battery fix this? ]]> Audio / Security / Video fhukingviet http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2682278 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2682174&goto=newpost Tue, 17 Nov 2009 15:24:17 GMT 1998 Honda Civic EX Sedan 5-Speed Viper 5002 alarm system Everything is ready for the install starting tomorrow morning. Looking over my notes... 1998 Honda Civic EX Sedan 5-Speed
Viper 5002 alarm system

Everything is ready for the install starting tomorrow morning. Looking over my notes there is an area of confusion.

Is this correct?
520T Battery Backup Module
RED .. (15A fuse 12” from power source) to 12V Constant [18 gauge wire]
GRAY (+) 12V Output - to Viper (+) 12V Constant (should there be a 15A inline fuse here?)
BLACK .. GROUND to Chassis
BLUE (-) Output to Control Module - tap H2/2 GREY (-) Hood Pin Input, Zone 6 (22 gauge) (Is this correct? Isolate this?)

On CauseForAlarm I read "...Cut the alarm's red power wire an inch before the fuse and connect it to the backup module's gray wire." Why do this if the Backup Battery Module's GRAY wire connects here anyway, and a fuse is called for in Backup Battery Module's instructions??

Is it OK to extend the Antenna wires?? I'm mounting it in the center of the windshield, and wire will not reach the brain. ]]> Audio / Security / Video Karado58 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2682174 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2682124&goto=newpost Tue, 17 Nov 2009 11:47:46 GMT People around me are getting their cars stolen left and right since lately and i feel like its only a matter of time before i become the next victim.... People around me are getting their cars stolen left and right since lately and i feel like its only a matter of time before i become the next victim. The threads in here all preach to get an alarm but we all know that if someone really wants your car they are gonna get it, whether it be somehow disarming the alarm, tow/flatbed or if they are really desperate just taking it from you at gunpoint which at that point an alarm is of no use. The only 2 ways i see that you can have peace of mind is either having insurance or having some sort of tracker. The tracker seems to be the cheaper less stress option since you can get the car back WHEN stolen relatively quickly(and possibly before it becomes a shell). However, i've heard about them being delayed and having weak signals in certain places which would defeat the whole purpose. What do you guys think is the best option and are there trackers that are better than others like the ones that fleet companys use? ]]> Audio / Security / Video mark2583 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2682124 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2681921&goto=newpost Tue, 17 Nov 2009 02:00:02 GMT Hey guys. I just bought this amp a few hours ago locally. Anyways, I have a single (1) dual-voice coil Kicker L7 that is wired for a 2 ohm load.... Hey guys. I just bought this amp a few hours ago locally.

Anyways, I have a single (1) dual-voice coil Kicker L7 that is wired for a 2 ohm load. According to the specs for this amp, should I change the wiring on the sub to a 4 ohm load? Is it even safe to run this amp at a 2ohm load?



Thanks in advance!

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...rion+6002.html

* RMS Power Output:
o 150 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 Ohms
o 300 watts x 2 chan. @ 2 Ohms
o 600 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 Ohms Bridged
* Intelli Q bass optimization circuit and remote gain option
* Intelli Bass variable bass equalization ]]> Audio / Security / Video HAccord96 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2681921